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My Quest for the Elusive French Macaron: Meeting Giselle at Duchess Bake Shop

Valerie — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 01:09:00 +0000

For the same reason as so many of us are enraptured by the French Macaron, I, too, am under its spell. There is something magical about the symmetry and juxtaposition coupled with the whimsical formality of this pâtisserie petit gâteau that enchants me. Treking down a narrow, history rich street in Paris in the early spring of 1995 a pâtisserie window was laden with offerings for the upcoming Easter holiday. What are those? Why are they so outrageously expensive (at twelve pieces for twenty four Euros)? At that time, the French Macarons were all pastel coloured, clearly precious and foreign to me. I had no frame of reference for anything remotely similar. I was doing some major lécher les vitrines (“window licking”, literal translation for window shopping) during that trip. The next year, I was smarter, and bought some. My life changed at that moment as I was immediately driven to acquire the art and skill necessary to master this pièce de résistance.

This quest led me to Giselle Beggs. I met with her at Duchess Bake Shop Tuesday evening. The last time I was so motivated, my life changed, considerably. I have the feeling that the impetus resulting from my time with her will also be life altering. But, first, the macaron.

The light, crisp, delicate shell reveals a chewy wisp of heaven with one bite, and it is gone. The lingering je ne sais quoi is compelling. Another bite, and another, and another, and another, and another…..trying to capture that ephemeral allure. Yet, somehow, I never get enough. The fleeting bliss is part of my compulsion. Honest to God, these petit gâteau of effervescent chewy perfection have been a passion of mine since that first bite in Paris so long ago. I yearned to learn how to make these! Fervently.

My recent conversation with Giselle where I listened to her remarkable story of perseverence inspired me. I have discovered a renewed and enthusiastic capacity within myself to re-embark on my journey to mastery of the elusive French Macaron. In Giselle, I have found a mentor, and definitely a very special bake shop to run to whenever I need a boost of inspiration. Thank you, Giselle Beggs!

I never imagined that Edmonton would house a French Pâtisserie of the quality and charm that I discovered at Duchess Bake Shop. Few cities have a French Patisserie of any credibility that did not originate in France. Duchess Bake Shop originated in the mind and heart of Giselle and Garner Beggs when they were living in Tokyo frequenting such flagship stores as Pierre Herme and Ladurée .

The story of the macaron generally accepted by all is that it was created at the beginning of the 20th century by Ladurée. They attest to adding one final ingredient, a pinch of unique “know-how”, essential to the making of such a delicacy. This is the “unique pinch” that Giselle offers each of us through her gift of the macaron. It is this “know-how” that I am passionate for.

The story of Duchess Bake Shop starts with Giselle Beggs. She was born and bilingually educated in Edmonton. She met her husband, Garner, at the University of Victoria where she first studied Art History, and then went into Library Science. Each completely different than the other, yet complimentary. But, enough. She quit. But, she is not a drop out. Neither option was feeding her spirit, so she started to work in a Vancouver Bakery as she had always had an interest in baking and was seeking her niche. And, she excelled. She was soon working 18 hours a day. The work was grueling and not very satisfying. Enough. She and Garner packed their bags and moved to Japan to teach English. He, too, is an adventurer. Again, a competely different path. Giselle is fearless. It is important to her to love what she does and have a raison d’etre that bestows her with a joy and purpose, motivating her daily. That was clearly apparent as I listened to her story beaming up at me from under her flour dusted cap, eyes sparkling, though she hasn’t had a decent sleep in days. The intense demands upon her time in her new over-the-top successful pâtisserie have surpassed even her expectations. Her catalyst? The macaron.

(They have kept me awake at night, too!) As we sat down together in their store, she lay a tattered, yellow booklet down upon the table and opened it. This chronicled her personal macaron making journey. She had notes from her escapades to Pierre Herme, Ladree and other Tokyo shops. She and Garner would eye the macaron, crunch on more than a few, taste, write notes, taste another, more notes. Giselle took a macaron making course in Tokyo from a baker there. She had little folding diagrams on the margin of one page of her journal. She is not afraid of hard work. She said it took her at least 50 times attempting to make the macaron until she was satisfied with her result. She said it was another 100 times until she developed her now “top secret” recipe for their bake shop. That is passion. That is perseverence. That is the mark of excellence, and that is the modus operandi of this couple.

She and Garner worked in Tokyo for four years to save money to enable this dream, they worked non-stop at developing their plan, and she continued to develop her recipes. They returned to Edmonton in May of 2009, had the keys for the shop July 15th and were open to the public the second of October. That is lightening speed.

And, they did everything themselves. That is, with their family and friends. The rococo interior, the cabinets, the ceiling, the logo, and whatever else needed to be done was done by this tenacious couple. Garner built the beautifully curved pastry counter. “Has he had experience building before?” The answer? “None, whatsoever.” The counter is masterful. This is a couple that has both feet firmly planted on the ground and believes everything is possible. They believe in their personal abilities to do whatever it takes, and they do not stop until they succeed. And their foundation of family and committed circle of friends holds them to this standard with their love and personal sweat.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04L-JWiUhsY

I had asked Giselle if she was interested in teaching people (like me) who needed to be taught a thing or two. I, too, usually accomplish my goals, but the macaron has eluded me. She gave me some great tips when we moved into her gorgeous, immaculate, and spacious kitchen. I found that very generous of her, yet learned it is so a part of who she is.

She had the batter ready. Look at the consistency.

And then, how she held the bag was so important. She explained to me what she was doing as she did it, and why. This was the first time I had even seen naked macarons that I knew were going to be baked masterpieces, not baked pools of batter. I was captivated. Then, she held the pan up, and hit the bottom of it forcefully, several times, to get out any bubbles and to knock down any peaks. I noticed that each peak deflated as she continued to pipe the tray, anyway. That must be one trait of perfect batter. She thought I had probably been over beating mine. I thought I had been underbeating them, so this was a revelation.

She has the most beautiful commercial oven I have ever seen. She said she worked with it when she took her classes at NAIT, and found it the best available. The trays rotate constantly while the oven cooks. I stood and watched the macarons cook for a few minutes. “Was it easy for you to adapt your recipe and process to this oven?” I asked. “Right where you are standing I cried big crocodile tears.” she grinned, and I was taken by surprise. I became connected with that space I was standing in. Very connected.

And Giselle had, by that time, developed considerable confidence in her abilities, and knew that with adjustiment in temperature and ingredients, she would succeed as she now has.

Look at those little feet! This was my first “macaron-in -the-oven-growing-feet” experience. Whee!

And the next batch was lavender. Très français! I left Giselle with my arms laden with boxes of treats, my head filled with knowledge, and my heart with intense inspiration. I drove immediately to Notables and purchased a beautiful journal to record phase two of my quest for the elusive French Macaron. I was driving with one hand, tracing the embossed design on the cover of my new journal with my other hand, delighting in a rose scented macaron with my third hand, and grinning way past each ear all-the-way-home!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfTYaq-_YIc

And life offers more than one serendipitous moment to each of us now and then. Another came just days after this when a fellow food blogger, Bénédicte Garmier, accepted my plea to teach me how to make the French macaron. I had seen from the photos in June at the last Edmonton Food Blogger Meet-Up that she made beautiful ones. We had planned then to get together in the fall, but in September, she just wasn’t available. Now she is, so keep tuned my adventures with Béné next!

Read Nikki’s review, and Twyla’s review of Duchess. And, to understand more about the macaron…

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Morning Coffee in Yountville at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery

Valerie — Sat, 19 Sep 2009 08:56:00 +0000

Yup, just straight down the street from The French Laundry. Bouchon appeared first, and then the bakery, on the same lot, seperated by a casual outdoor cafe already dotted with couples enjoying their coffee in the warm morning sun. I could spend time here, later. Pull the door open! (The Martha Stewart green paint on the outside did surprise me. I expected it to be the colour of bread: oak. But, the colour, with the awnings, and the patio was so right.)

A feast for the eyes! And, there is nothing like the smell of freshly baked bread. Good morning! I fluttered around like a butterfly in a flower garden. “Oh, my gosh! Oh, my gosh! Look at this! Look at that!” And then started clicking my camera. I could not take enough photos. It was not a large room, but it was so quaint, somehow. Did you see the chocolate mousse with the chocolate mouse on top? The humour was great fun! The artisan breads were gorgeous. I could see immediately that when I make my bread (the one shaped like a head of wheat below) that I cut the ears too close together. I have made it since coming home, and they look almost like these. The only difference is the difference a professional oven makes. And, a professional oven does make a big difference when it comes to baking French or Italian crusty breads. I knew by now to ask for a tour of the kitchen. I didn’t plan to ask. The desire just flowed through me and the question, out of my mouth. The fellow tolerating my antics and pleasure was so sweet. He was surprised, but did ask, and then, I was in! (Apparently the requests to visit the bakery kitchen are few and far between.)

“Hello! You are so lucky to be working in such a wonderful bakery! Thank you for letting me take a peek!” I got a big grin and then had a very brief sharing of a word or two about the lemon tart she was building. There were huge trays of yummies everywhere. Clearly, the pot de crème were for Bouchon. I love them. So luscious.

And then over to the other side where the bread is being shaped by this gal. This time, I had a little chat with her about breads. I told her I make my own, and love bread making. She then told me that the one she was shaping was her own creation, and this was the first time she had made it. They needed to proof, and wouldn’t be ready for a bit, so I couldn’t sample. But, what a healthy environment to work in. To be inspired to create your own bread, and then to be encouraged to do it. I was impressed. She was definitely an interesting gal, and as she was so busy, I was mainly speaking with her as she had her head down, though I had seen her look up and laugh, or smile a few times throughout our brief interchange, and really wanted to catch that image on my camera. So, I said, as I was heading out, “Come on, give me a little smile!” See he hilarious pasted-on grin? I really wanted to roll up my sleeves and just play in this kitchen the rest of the day. I mean, I would have taken orders, and worked hard. But would have learned so much. The experience would have been just such a dream. And, though they were very busy, there was a lot of room and I don’t think I would have been in the way. I am certain, I would have been a significant help. I do have my Food Safety training, but, I guess there are other considerations. Are there?

I walked by a tray of buns (what is the correct word for these?) that had been slashed and were proofing. Immediately I recognized them as one of the intricately beautiful breads offered to us the evening before at The French Laundry. Honestly, until I saw them proofing, I hadn’t realized how the design was created on the crust of the bread. Not as simple as it looks, either, as the depth would also have to be uniform.

Oooo. He looked important. I thanked him for letting me have my little tour, and then asked if I could take a photograph of him. His reply, (after a little sideways glance looking for an escape route), “Only if you participate.” If I must. I really prefer to take the photo. But, here we are, Matt McDonald, the certified master baker overseeing the Bouchon Bakery in Yountville, and me. “Cheese!”

Double cheese, and my sweet clerk grinned for me. I am glad he did, as he was such a warm host.

Yes, I am buying a bag of goodies to take home. He is getting me my mouse mousse!

And, with my coffee (that was so hot, I never ended up being able to drink it) I purchased a scone that was recommended. I ate it the following day, and it truly was exceptional. I think there must have been a flavouring used that I may have read is used in some breads. It had a flavour that was really delicious, but did not come from any of the ingredients. Though, the glaze, and every bite as superb! I didn’t expect that. I expected a scone. A plain old tasty scone. This really was an elevated version of that. I could not reproduce this. Yet, the signature chocolate bite I did buy and taste almost had me dancing. It was tasty, but if this is the signature bite, then I am a really good baker! I could easily make one much better at home. The almond bite was pretty, and tasty, but I could do better with that, too. What did I learn? I am better than I thought at making some things. However, come to think of it, almost anyone who bakes can make anything sweet better at home than the bakery can make it. I really think so. But not the bread. My homemade bread is really nice, but I cannot get the crust like a commercial oven can. I cannot get the heat a commercial oven can.

So, it isn’t even close to noon yet, and I have traipsed through the French Laundry Garden, had a tour through the Bouchon Bakery, and sat in the morning sun, enjoying my treats, my steaming hot coffee, my husband, and the comical little black crows fluttering about the courtyard, pecking at the crumbs left of the ground. Off to Sonoma, Sausalito, and back to Lauren’s home in Palo Alto. Still most of the day to come, and my level of satisfaction is already completely saturated. A great beginning of a great day!

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Bouchon Bakery: One Could Never Leave Empty Handed, and a Plea for Help!

Valerie — Sat, 19 Sep 2009 07:52:00 +0000

I am absolutely crazy over French Macarons. Love them, love them, love them. I cannot make them. I cannot get a foot under them. I have tried and tried and tried and tried. And, I am still willing to try some more, but only if someone will show me how. I have exhausted my own ideas. There is an Edmonton Food Blogger called Béné who I have asked to help. She made some perfect looking chocolate looking macarons that I saw in photos of the last Edmonton Food Bloggers gathering. She was willing, but hasn’t the time right now, and wants to perfect her technique. Anyone else out there who can help? Have eggs. Will travel!

After coffee, I had to revisit the bakery and take some treats to Lauren. (I ate most of them.) I bought a little bag of the signature chocolate treats, a bag of “homemade” potato chips for Vanja (which he did later enjoy), a chocolate mousse (mouse) tart, a small foil covered chocolate caramel fleur de sel treat, and four macarons. I confess, I really wanted one of each. So, this was my attempt at not being too self indulgent. Ha! I picked three, and asked the server to pick the fourth. He told me he chose his favourite. I should have told him, “not the espresso one, please” as I knew Lauren wouldn’t eat that one. For some reason, I didn’t think he would choose it. He did.

The macarons were the size of the ones I see all over Northern Italy, yet the texture and perfectness of the petite ones available in Paris. Big or small. These are the ones I want to learn to make. Is anyone listening?

Anyway, this package travelled under my feet in the car close to the air conditioner until we arrived in San Francisco in the evening. It arrived in perfect condition! I find the balloon logo charming, and the two toned ties do add more than a “touch of class”.

To the left, below, is a cross section view of the chocolate mousse. To the right, a cross section of the foil covered chocolate caramel fleur de sel treat. Both were deadly, but the fleur de sel chocolate caramel was unbelievable perfection: a crispy-crunch in the middle of rich velvet chocolate with gooey caramel cut with the hand mined fleur de sel. I wished I had bought a case of these. YUM! The mousse was complex with the ganache, caramel, and chocolate shortbread layer with hazelnuts. But, I could make it. I could! The other, no. The crispy centre? NO.

Just looking at this gives me such pleasure: pastel patties of perfection.

It taste better than it looks, if that is possible. The pistachio ones are always my favourite. The chocolate treats ended up never being eaten. See? I did not mean to take these home, and then they were here and I think I enjoyed looking at them as much as eating them. Lauren and I (mainly me) ate everything else (except Vanja’s chips) before we left for home. But, I shall not forget.

I know I can make these. I know I can. I can. I can. I can. I can. I can. I am so motivated. I will work and work and work and work at it. I want to succeed. Hopefully, one day, there will be a post from me with my happy smile of triumph and a perfect macaron, a delicate work of art , held in my hand. But, until then, this was a fantastic treat. A lovely find. There is no place in Edmonton where I can buy these. Maybe I will be the “go-to” gal once I succeed. I hope so!

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CANTO 6: An AWARD winning Bakery in Boston!

Valerie — Sat, 02 May 2009 08:58:00 +0000

Alex Emmott, an “old” student of mine, owns Canto 6 in Boston!

Alex Emmott was one of my grade 8 students. A beautiful human being when she was 13. That is rare. And, it is apparent, and not surprising, a beautiful young adult! We reconnected after 13, or so, years because I had asked my Slow Food Edmonton members what they might suggest I see in Boston and NYC. A day or so later, there was an e-mail from a name I most definitely remembered asking me if I used to teach school at Crestwood, in Edmonton. Oh, my gosh! I was absolutely delighted to hear from Alex. She had a very comprehensive list of recommendations and I hit as many as I could when in Boston as I had taught her for a year, and knew that this was a gal to take seriously. She is who hooked me up with Michael Iceland to tour the Boston Food Project, and she also directed me toward the No Name as I wanted a really fun, no fuss, and lots of muss, seafood eat-out fest on evening there.

After I learned that she owned a bakery in Boston, I had to visit it, and her! I had her penned into the itinerary unknown to her! It was my first day in Boston, and I had just finished touring the north end with Michele Topor’s Tours. We rented a car, and the first stop was Canto 6 in Jamaica Plains for lunch. Driving into the area, it was clear that it was an eclectic area. Lively, and colourful!

And then, there it was. The sweetest little bakery on the corner. I never got an outside photo, but I tried! So many goodies! What shall we have? Well, now I discover that as my tour was late, Vanja and Lauren had already eaten while waiting for me, but they shared the most delectable sandwich. I believe it was the turkey one on the menu.

Me? I had a cannele, a tappo, and another delectable pastry of some kind. Yummers! I was a bit shy to call Alex, but Evangeline, working intently at the back, popped out and asked me if I was Alex’s teacher. I have always had that look! She gave her a call, and within ten minutes there was a little mini-reunion going on. My gosh! In a nano-second, Alex grew up before my eyes. There were the same eyes, and smile, and hands… but she was now a young lady. And, a young lady with a confidence and flare that was compelling. Big hug! How gratifying to meet such a lovely gal over a very special little lunch in her own bakery.

Lauren took the photos. Another wonderful memory. I am so, so happy that I took the time to see Alex. Next time, it will be for baking lessons! I want to learn to make their canneles and their tappos! Isn’t she so sweet? And so were the goodies! Georgeous, and YUMMY! Now I have written to Alex and asked if she and Evangeline share recipes. If so, I will be doing a cannele and tappos blog very, very soon!

THANK YOU, ALEX! XO

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