City Market, I have not forsaken thee. I do miss some of my favourite producers that cannot be found at OSFM in the winter from City Market. One cannot beat buy groceries from the hand of a farmer or his help in the fresh outdoors. Sigh! But, how fortunate are we in this winter climate of ours to have this fantastic indoor market all year round! It is even open at 8 am in the summer and I can often be found there getting some of that wonderful Edgar asparagus (sans line up) at 8 am, then heading down to the City Market in the summer. Not only for the asparagus, though. There are other very important products offered here that are not offered at the City Market. Farmer’s Markets are exclusive. I don’t like that, as a consumer. I want it to be how it used to be. All farmers in the area just pull up and sell what they have to sell. More about that later.

One of my newest and most exciting finds was veal bones at Four Whistle Farms. I almost feel I should keep this a secret as they are not always available. I searched everywhere for so many years, I gave up. Then. there they were. So many gorgeous veal bones. The young man behind the counter thought I was a bit nuts for sure. I was so excited to find them. He was very polite, though. But, I saw the twinkle in his eye and his wary raised brow! These are fantastic. I was so proud of my fist veal jus and cannot wait to make more! I like to cook them fresh, not frozen.

Sunworks Farms Chicken and eggs are always in my fridge and freezer. In the summer, I did discover a very good egg from another vendor, but can’t recall their name (which I feel badly about!!); however, I was most often getting my eggs here, anyway. Their roasting chickens are superb! Second to none. Expensive, but I find that the meat is “meatier” and more substantial. Certainly, there is NO comparison in flavour to one of these birds and one from Lilydale. When I was ranting on about this in my post about Chicken Paprikash, Kevin Kossowan had a very interesting comment that he added which is definitely worth repeating here: I’m becoming a huge believer in eating less meat quantity with higher quality. Good chicken is SO good. Bad chicken is SO bad. I had a couple Sunworks chickens this fall, and they were both excellent. I have a spreadsheet of this season’s meat cost by animal, and poultry comes in at the top with beef. Chicken being the most expensive protein per lb was counter intuitive as I don’t think we perceive it as the most valuable when we use it. The winner for domesticated meats: pork, by nearly half the price/lb of other meats. I was so surprised by his finding!

Sorry the price isn’t on here. It is about three dollars. One really great buy at the Sunworks Farm booth is their carcasses. I had searched high and low for bones and carcasses that would make a tasty chicken soup like I had when I visited Vanja’s parents. This is definitely it. I make a batch almost every Sunday. I also buy their legs and thighs for Chicken Paprikash which apparently I never make often enough!

Now, let’s take a look at the introductory photograph, again.

Sylvan Star Cheese is at OSFM every other week this year, and for the Christmas season produce small Edam’s (the red ball, above) and Baby Gouda’s (the yellow discs, above). I cannot imagine my cheese platter without this Christmas specials! Last year was the first time I discovered them, and they are here to stay! Sylvan Star also makes their own butter: cultured butter! So delicious! There are four pounds of it in the above photo, too, to let you know about it, but it is not sold at the market. I got mine at the Dairy Farm Fieldtrip. You can ask the gentleman at their booth where you can get it in the city.

First Nature Farms cannot be overlooked if you like bison or good beef! Jerry Kitt is an incredibly interesting farmer who will guide you through his products and always has something interesting to show you! This trip I bought Bison Flank Steak (or skirt steak) to compare the cooking of it to the cooking of its beef counter part.

And while we are talking meat, let me not forget Irvine’s Farm Fresh Berkshire Boar!!! Oh, Mama! Is that good meat!!! I just did a pork belly (yet to post) that was TO-DIE-FOR and am buying an entire pig to roast for the Edmonton Slow Food Winter Solstice Vanja and I are hosting January 8th. If you want to come, sign up for your membership!

Gull Valley Tomatoes are second to none! Unless I grow my own, this is all we eat. When they close for the winter, we go without until they return. Why? They are the only tomatoes I have found that taste like tomatoes. Do a taste test! Compare them to any other tomato. You will see!

Vanja is crazy over Pink Lady apples. They come out in October every year, and are well worth the wait. I love them, too. I am in big trouble if I don’t come home with a large bag of them from Steve and Dan’s BC Fresh Fruit. They also have the best dried apples I have ever come across and I have a bag on hand at all times as they are excellent with the Sylvan Star Medium Gouda. What a pairing!

The last bag on the bench above is a treat, really, as I always make everything we eat from scratch. I tested one of these little Siberian Pelmeni and knew I had to learn how to make them myself. Until then, at twelve dollars a bag, I buy them as they are definitely a taste of Easter Europe and the meat filled bites are too yummy to pass up. Also, all ingredients are real food! I cannot read the name of the booth, but it is the Russian Booth that sells the sour cabbage and the wonderful multi-layered cakes. I tried to blow up the image to read her business name, but cannot. Maybe you can!

Morinville Greenhouses is another favourite. This time, I bought no fresh herbs from his booth, but I usually do. He is the best place for spring herbs, large rosemary shrubs, and anything of this nature. The bagged basil is gorgeous and he has a fridge filled with tender greens similar to what I saw at the Ferry Market in San Francisco!

The only item that I haven’t raved about, yet, that is in the above photo, are the red banana potatoes at Riverbend Gardens. They are second to none. The only other potato I buy that I love just as much is Greens Eggs & Ham’s almond potatoes. I have to get over to Avenue Market on Thursday nights yet, as I am short of their lovely produce, and miss it, dearly! There are other City Market vendors there as well as some new ones I have been eager to meet!

I have paid my ten dollars deposit to Sunworks for my Christmas Turkey and will be there standing in the long line on Thursday morning with everyone else. Then I will buy everything I can that you have read about here today, plus my favourite Nantes Carrots! They have a juicer in their booth now, and I cannot wait to try to make some carrot sorbet with my Thermomix! I know, it sounds crazy, but I read it in NoMa’s new cook book at NoMa was just voted the best new restaurant for 2010, so it is probably worth a go!

There are so many other wonderful vendors at the market, too!

Merry Christmas to everyone! When you are out doing your last minute shopping for the weekend, remember your farmers, and get out to the markets.

Love, Valerie

I have tried to make some significant changes to the way I shop for food. Have you watched Food Inc. (Blockbusters has it)? If not, even though it is based upon the American Food Industry, it applies to what is happening in Canada, and I suggest you do watch it. Knowledge is power. Without knowledge, you will be making decisions that affect your health and the health of your family every day by the food you buy and bring into your home. We really are what we eat now, more than ever before, on this planet.

Most parents no longer cook. Not those reading this post, but you can clearly see by the increase of business at fast food restaurants and through the massive variety of convenience foods available at the super markets that this is true. Every day, at lunch, most of the students at our school that do bring a lunch (and that would be about 2/3rds) are bringing “one of those”, and “one of those”, and “one of those” all pre-packaged prepared processed “nutritious” snacks thrown into a brown bag from the pantry at home. Not good. But, I digress. Saturday, I went to the market in the morning. That is something I have changed in my life. Every Saturday I go to the market. In the summer, I go to the City Market downtown. It is not the closest to my home. The Callingwood Market on Sunday is the closest. But, it is on Saturday, and that is the day I have chosen to do my shopping for the week. In the winter, I go to the Old Strathcona Farmer’s Market. Sometimes, I still head over there in the summer at 8 before I head downtown as it does open an hour earlier and has some vendors that I really appreciate and use. (Sunworks Farms eggs and chicken, Edgar’s Farms Asparagus is there at 8 am in the Spring, Morinville Greenhouses for their herbs for my summer garden and throughout the year for eating, etc…)

Also, the St. Albert Farmer’s Market is the largest open air market in North America, and second in the world, I believe. It is a must at least a couple of times a year just for the experience!

This change in my life has not been an easy one, but it has been rewarding past my wildest expectations. Yes, I said “wildest!”! I never imagined that I would look so forward to the produce, the farmers, the friends. It is actually exhilarating for me! Nor did I understand, at the time, the ultimate pleasure it would be to prepare meals for my husband and friends with the quality of food I am able to source. And, last: I feel so good! I feel empowered and in charge and resilient as I know I have healthy nutritious delicious food that has flavour and taste and colour and aroma that make our home a happy place to be. Whew. eh?

Dairy

So, here are my usual picks! I will start with my dairy. I get my eggs from Sunworks Farms at OSFM unless I don’t make it over there, then I get them from Sunshine Organics Farm at City Market. The point is, we no longer eat eggs that I don’t get from the hand of a farmer. I want my eggs fresh with deep yellow yolks from happy chickens that are running around a yard pecking their little beaks in places they shouldn’t.. Those are happy eggs. I make my own yogurt, and when I do, I need a starter and Bles Wold Dairy is an Alberta Farm that sells all over. I buy mine from the Italian Centre Shops as I have made a conscious decision to buy local and to keep my grocery dollars (a massive amount, right?) in the same place I live. I buy fresh yeast. The only place I can find it is also at the Italian Centre Shops. It freezes well, so I buy it, bring it home, and weigh it per loaf, and repackage, then freeze. Great yeast.

I am still struggling with milk. We do not drink it. I bake with it, and I don’t bake with it that often, so that sad thing is that I usually run to Safeway when I need it. I am doing better and have found that I adore the organic whole milks I am finding at Planet Organic, but would really like to get my milk from an Alberta source, too. Thus, Vital Greens Farms (currently at Planet Organic) is my go-to source for Buttermilk and Cream (52%) and today: sour cream. There is no better product anywhere than theirs. It is exactly how I recall it from my youth straight from Bell’s Dairy Farm beside my grandmother’s house.

The Italian Centre Shop gets most of my cheese dollars, as they cannot be beat. They have local mozzarella made in Alberta and Canadian Bocconcini which is where I always buy mine. I do still buy Artisan cheeses from all over the world. That I can justify. But, there are two other Cheese Makers in our province that cannot go unmentioned. I always have Sylvan Star cheese in my home. I didn’t need any this week, so it is not in the picture, but they have a booth at City Market downtown and also sell at Planet Organic. Talk to them about cheese. Taste it. Taste their award winning cheeses. This is a phenomenal Dutch cheese making family that makes world class award winning Dutch cheeses in our backyard near Sylvan Lake.

Last, but most certainly not least is Smoky Valley Goat Cheese. My gosh, does this family make fantastic Artisan French Goat Cheeses. They must be sampled to be appreciated. Go to their website. Go to the market. Chat with them about their cheeses. Buy some. I buy a small 250 ml package of their Chèvre every Saturday and one other kind. Whatever is new, or available, or the St. Maure which is my current favourite. This week, they had their Mountain Tomme available. I haven’t tried it yet. It is not always available as they are an Artisan Cheese making farm and it is available when it is ready, so I bought it and am looking forward to the tasting.

You can do some label reading, here.

Just look at the texture of that chèvre! It is mild and luscious and creamy and tangy, but not too tangy, all at once. Delicious with roasted beets this time of year, and addictive with hot pepper jelly and a cracker. YUM! I cannot wait to taste the Mountain Tomme!

Produce

Sundogs Organic Farms is a must. I buy all produce there that I can, first, with the exception of potatoes and salad greens. They are superb. Their produce is edible art. They take such care and joy in preparing the food for my table that I am moved every week I shop there. I just love seeing Jennifer and her husband and their happy crew. Their garlic is second to none. It is a must. It will change your life. So will the experience of shopping at their booth. This week I got Fairy Eggplant! Aren’t they pretty? I sliced them in half lengthwise and was going to grill them, but instead, fried them with some young garden zuchhini, onions and tomatoes to make a delicate ratatouille. I will post that eventually, too. Incredible produce there every week.

I buy my potatoes two places, religiously. I have tried them all. Greens Eggs & Ham have baby Almond Potatoes that are crispy on the outside and creamy inside when oven roasted: sublime texture. I also love their mixed bag for a mixed roast. They are great for salads, too, but be careful as the varying potatoes have varying cooking times. Riverbend Market Gardens gets the other half of my potato dollar; their baby red banana potatoes with a waxy yellow interior are unexpectedly delicious. We go through a lot of these, too. Both sell at the City Market downtown in the summer. Riverbend is at OSFM, too.

Mushrooms? It has to me MoNa’s. Service and expertise are second to none, just like their produce. They have also sourced rosehips, huckleberries, sour cherries, black currants – you name it, for me. Also, they can bring in fresh truffles for you. Below is a lobster mushroom which are now in season and this big one was ten dollars. I just chop it up and fry it in butter. It is meaty, dense and so flavourful with not only the lobster colouring, but has a delicate lobster flavour note there, too. Love it.

In Alberta, we have Taber Corn. The Peaches and Cream variety is my favourite and is a must every fall. Right now there are a couple of booths selling it at the City Market downtown. I plan to make some soup, some cornbread and some other goodies with it. It is always a happy moment to discover a new vegetable in season to cook with!

I am not buying tomatoes right now. I am growing them. Mine don’t have blight, either, lucky me. But, neither have they had sun. So, they are hanging in there, literally, waiting to turn colour. I am harvesting enough daily for our table. When I do buy them, I only buy from Gull Valley Tomatoes. They are the best in the area. Right now, their cocktail sized tomatoes (just ask for the cocktail tomatoes) are the best tomatoes they have grown in ages flavourwise. That is really saying something, as all of their tomatoes taste like a breath from the past. Outstanding. They can be found at all local Farmer’s Markets.

Greens Eggs & Ham sells a mixed package of Lettuce Greens. They are a must if you do not grow your own. The bag might look small. It is filled with a lot more salad ingredients than it looks. It is not all light and fluffy and looking like more than is really there as we find in the supermarket bags. It is ten dollars. That may seem expensive. It is not. There is a lot of salad in that bag. It is delicious, nutritious and really good for you leaves without any chemicals or preservatives. It keeps for over two weeks in my fridge so it lasts longer than anything else I could ever buy. This seemingly expensive product is not expensive and so worth it.  I have it all of the time when I don’t grow my own.

Treats

Ah! There is something about having a coffee and a snack at the market if you have time. Shopping becomes a relaxed and pleasurable social experience. Not the rush and stuff your car experience it can be. I chat with the vendors. I see many foodie friends. I have a coffee on a brisk morning to warm my blue fingers as I look to see what is available this week. And, on occasion. Only rarely, do I treat myself to something because I bake everything myself. But, if I am going to, there is no other booth than The Queen of Tarts! Oh, my! Just looking at her wares is enticing and will be completely irresistible, so be prepared! Everything tastes even better than it looks. Most recently I have become (unfortunately) hooked on her Cheddar Shorties. I used to make them. I cannot find my recipe. I am working on it. Until then, I have come to buy a package almost every week for the past three weeks. There are 10 in the package and they are ten dollars. I wouldn’t sell them for less with the precious ingredients she has in them and the work it takes to make them. But, I will figure it out. However, I will still treat myself or my guests to something, now and then, from her incredible fare. Don’t miss it.

Meat

I am not buying all of our meat from the market. But, I do buy most of our meat from a farm. O Sol’ Meatos (City Market some weeks) is a new company selling a house made artisan chorizo and another cardomon salami. They are not cheap, but again, I wouldn’t make them and sell them for less myself. These are really tasty and a nice alternative to what we know. Some new healthy artisan local flavours for the plate.

I don’t have a photo for the Budapest Deli products at their booth at City Market. Go to their store. It is worth the trip. Seriously. It is very small, but smells of their smoke house and has the best bacon in the city hanging on the back rack: pick your slab. Smoked? Double Smoked? Drier? It is all there. If not, ask, and they will do it for you. Their house smoke sausage is a treat. Slice it very thin and then go away some place inside of your head to be alone with it. It is incredible. At the market, they have vacuum packed bacon and the sausages there, but you can’t pick your own. I also buy my sour cabbage from them in the fall. I use it to make sarma, or sour cabbage rolls, traditional to Vanja’s culture. It is superb.

My pork has to be from a Berkshire pig. The fat is so flavourful and marbled so well that I get all of my pork from Irvings Farm Fresh. They can be found at all local markets and are really great people to work with. They will do anything you want any way you want it.

My duck, duck eggs, duck fat and alternative poultry (like guinea fowl and cornish hens) is always from Greens Eggs & Ham. Below is a new artisan Paprika sausage they just had made with duck breasts that I picked up to try. This package was small, and cost seventeen dollars. That is very expensive. I will treat my family to indulgences like this now and again. They were flavourful and I did them as Mary Ellen told me to: on top of a bed of fried onion and potatoes with sweet paprika and sour cream to finish, then top with the sausage and steam for 4 minutes. Their duck is superb and I love the confit made from it. I need to post that. I have made it so many times, and still not posted it. YUM!

All chicken is from Sunworks Farms at OSFM. So, where do we get our beef? Where do we get our veal? That is what I want to decide. So far, I am still tasting and testing and looking. I haven’t a beef farmer or a veal farmer and need both.

Other Vendors

Lola Canola is my favourite honey go-to gal. What a wealth of information, perky personality, and a great product. She will definitely set you up.

Gwen, from Inspired Market Gardens, is the same. I bought the bulk of my gorgeous tomato plants from her this Spring. What a wealth of knowledge that she so carefully shares. She is definitely a market favourite of mine.

I hope I don’t miss anyone. The Jam Lady, if you don’t make your own jams (and I do) is an institution in our city. Her jams are creative, bold, innovative and delicious; they are also very reasonably priced.

Steve & Dan’s Fruit Stand is my first stop for their fantastic dried apples (for my cheese and charcuterie platters) and for their BC fruit.

This past week, I happened upon a new booth here for the first time that I went crazy over: La Fourchette (lafourchette4@gmail.com)! They pound old cutlery flat and stamp it (and will take personalized orders) for you at 6 dollars a piece, or 5 dollars a piece if you buy more than 5. Aren’t these the most fab garden markers you have ever seen? I cannot wait to use them next summer! They also make them to stick into flowers (“Fork Me”, “Spoon Me”… blush) or to use however you see fit. Yes, these are all mine with 4 more on order.

So, there you have it. I love to get tips from my local foodies about what they buy, where they buy it, how much they pay, and what they cannot live without. This is mine. I hope you try some of my favourites and let me know what yours are!

And, at the very least, think about where you are shopping and why. How is it affecting your local economy and the health and vitality of your family?

After travelling so far, then being cooped up in the hotel room, Beavie was fit to be tied and so excited to be out for the day! I wanted to go to an outdoor market in Paris. I read about them all and in many more places than one. There is no one major outdoor market in Paris as there is in London at Borough Market. Each little neighbourhood has their own open air market and it was very difficult to know which one to choose as each one reflects the personality of the neighbourhood and I know nothing about neighbourhoods here.. Anyone I wrote to and asked (who answered) did not give a definitive answer. I learned that it was like asking what chocolate is best from a chocolatier. “What do you like?” It all depends upon what you are looking for – and I had no idea. I did know I was looking to find items that were new to me. I want to see specialty foods and what most of the French would find at their market. I think it is not easy to get a grasp of the later unless you visit a few markets in Paris. This one was a good place to start as it is very close to the touristy spots. Mind you, they all are. However, it was a bit disappointing.

The day was sunny and hot and lovely for going to the market and on tp a picnic. Beavie observed a lot on his day out. For one thing, the boxwoods are alive (not plastic) and have new growth on them! For another, the metro seats and windows are dirty: not super dirty, but enough to encourage one to not sit on furniture at home after sitting on the seats.

And Beavie found the buskers that entered the trains constantly blasting their little speakers and playing and singing along for spare change to be incredibly annoying. It happened very often. Even on the RER. Never make eye contact with them. If you do, you are done. And the metro was jerky, but incredibly fast. The speed made it a great mode of transportation despite the inconveniences. (Beavie fell over at the first take off!)

We were at Rue Cler in no time and looking for the market. Where was it? We were early, of course: 8 am. They should be setting it all up, now. I love to be at the market when it is getting set up. It is early, and fresh and there is so much activity.

But not too much was happening. There were a few delivery trucks here and there, and the permanent grocers were getting their wares out and on display. Empty boxes were strewn in the street in front of the fruit and vegetable stand, but where were the farmers?

The store fronts were as charming and as Parisian as one might expect, but I am a little confused.

Juesslin Charcuterie is setting up and the doors were open. They nodded to my request for photos, so I started to investigate here while waiting to see what was to unfold; Vanja took Beavie for a coffee. Beavie wasn’t bored, but there wasn’t too much going on at this point.

The meat was gorgeous and different than at home. It was not as glaringly different as in London as all of the cuts and kinds of meat were labelled there in English. I couldn’t understand everything on these labels. I did understand the kind of meat, but definitely not the cuts and many were definitely new to me.

Above were some little wrapped fillets (middle) very similar to what I saw everywhere in London (and nowhere at home). Look at that gorgeous osso bocco, above! Below are some house made sausages.

The veal and rabbit look lovely. It is so hard to find veal that is raised ethically in Edmonton. Here, it is everywhere. And, I have eaten rabbit and truly enjoyed it. It is not easy to find in Edmonton and I do like cooking it. Change is good. They used to carry in at Superstore as regular stock when it first opened. No more. However, we haven’t any local source for it, to my knowledge, anyway.

I am always intrigued by local charcuterie and house made sausage: especially the dry and smoked ones.

Above, left, the patés and loaves look very similar to what they did in London. You can buy roast chicken at the market, here, too, mom. but not on the spit.

After reading Rick Steeves review of Rue de Cler Market, Vanja had a difficult time deciding where to drink his coffee: where the locals do, or where the cool people do. He chose the one with the most people. Not this one. It was the one where the “cool people” go. Beavie would have it no other way.

This pâtisserie was also filled with a variety of delectable looking items. The staff wasn’t too friendly, but what can I expect? I am taking photos (with their permission) and salivating all over their food. It probably wasn’t as tasty as it looked.

Clearly, (well, not so clearly…) the photos here are all taken through glass.

I wanted to taste every single quiche (2.50 Euro each) and the crusts looked so perfect. I should have bought those rings at E. Dehillerin!!

And the tarts! Oh, the tarts! Our pies do not come close to the perfection of these fruit pastries. Just look at them. Oh, my! The time taken with the presentation of each tasty morsel is motivating. I want to go home and recreate these! Now!

It is also a little disconcerting. Gorgeous pastries, everywhere. I realize that some taste better than others. That is why some pastry shops are famous. But, so many have perfected the art of making them look lovely.

The brioche I baked at my Breaad Baking class at Le Cordon Bleu (post yet to come) on the Saturday after we were were here was actually baked to look exactly like this. I thought it was too dark, but it is baked to a very dark crust.

I cannot recall ever laying my eyes on this kind of baguette (the viennoise, below): stunning. And, clearly, formal.

This is the kind of meringue I have seen all over Italy and much bigger, but rarely here. Then again, I am certainly not a local! But, I don’t like meringues like this. I find them too sweet. But make them into a Pavlova or break them into a creamy dessert and you have my undivided attention!

Time to see if Beavie and Vanja are finished their coffee. It is after 9, almost 9:30 am actually, and not too much has been “set up” at all on this street. It is apparent, after walking it, that the vendors are all permanent stores. That I didn’t expect and found disappointing. Some never did open, like O&Co. I was disappointed about this as I had just finished the oil I had purchased there from another trip and was hanging out to get more, but the door never opened. Most stores didn’t open until 10 am. I was told these were “summer hours” when I asked, and some not until 10:30 am (again, summer hours, even though the information on the internet indicated opening time to be any time after 8 am.)

Let’s go and buy some Espelette pepper I have found it. (I had completely forgotten about it the day prior when I did the Kitchen Ingredient shopping). I discovered it prior to coming and it was on my shopping list. Then, Chef Justin used it on the shrimp skewer recipe at La Cuisine when Vanja and I cooked dinner together there in a class on Bastille Day. It was a must buy.

Yes, I am enamoured with the pigeons. We don’t have them at home, either.

Beavie was r-r-r-r-ready! Vanja was not. But, he came anyway. See how Parisian Beavie is? He is sitting, facing the street, watching all of the people go by while having his morning coffee. Ah! This is the life!

I had to stop a few places that were now open to peek in, along the way. Look at the gorgeous meat here! It was open before, but there is much more out, now. As we were planning on picking up some meat, cheese, bread, and other items from the market for a picnic, I didn’t want Vanja to miss out on any choices.

I went ga-ga over the meat wrapped in the caul fat, below, left. I would love to get my hands on some of that regularly, and easily, in Edmonton, like one can in most parts of the European world. Why is it impossible to find. Restaurants do use it. Where do they get it from?

There was a lot of puff pastry pots stuffed with savoury items. The long, thin shredded cheese (a different shred that is usual) decorated many food items making them look like delectable pom-poms. It was new and appealing. (I wished I wasn’t too big to ride on the piggy!!) Wheee!

This shop was full of delicacies that were beautifully prepared. The carpaccio looked deadly delicious! I am constantly charmed by terrines. They are gorgeous and only one’s imagination can limit the possible combinations. Of course, there are traditional recipes.

I have said that dried sausage appeals to me. It does. In every country there is a specialty. And, sometimes, in a city. For example, when I was in Firenze (Florence) last, the guide told me about the one there. I forget the name. People travel and take it with them. She was taking some for her mother in Venezia(Venice). Does anyone know what this is called? I bought some and brought it home for Vanja that year. It was so delicious. My mouth waters thinking of it. And, I need to recall its name! In Bosna, there is Kulen. It is incredibly delicious and full of paprika. I love it. I will be writing about it with my Bosna post, soon. I didn’t know what the Parisan specialty was as I didn’t know anyone to ask. But, I am curious. I certainly am!

Smoked salmon was revered, everywhere we went. At Jöel Robichon’s Atelier Restaurant in Paris (another post, coming soon) it was served as an appetizer with dill crème fraiche and a potato galette (made in a waffle pan). Pure heaven. It was in terrines, and rolls and covering such gorgeous little savoury cold pots as this one. I must! I must! I must use it more. I love it. It glistens with goodness.

I find the photographs I take very motivating and they often serve as the catalyst for an idea that I create at home (or attempt to)!

This cheese shop was still setting up. We would be back!

And we bought our charcuterie at Davoli, later. I never did see Ulysse have any business, though the chairs went out about 10 am.

We were headed for the above grocery store to buy the espelette pepper. I took photos of all four corners on the street. Another coffee shop.

And from where we just came, above, with a little closer view, below.

It was early in the morning, but it is never too early for a good ice cream. I see Berthillon is now sold in other locals than the original spot across from Notre Dame.

And the street continues…

We went into Top Halles. Beavie spotted it first. I had said I would get two. Vanja saw the price first. I had thought the code was the price. Each 40 gram bottle was 10 Euros. This is not a cheap item. Whew! Beavie was very careful not to break the jars!

Look! Red glistening currants! I grow them, but they rarely all ripen at once, like these – though my grandmother’s used to. Help, gardeners out there! What am I doing wrong? And they are very prone to worms and bugs, but I love them so much, I keep at it. I spray the wood in the spring and the fall when there is no growth with the duel mix that kills bug eggs.

I grow and love the black currants, too. The looked huge and gorgeous this year, just before we left for our trip, but I hear they have become worm infested. I was spraying them with soap, daily, before I left. I am really sad about this. I welcome suggestions!

Beavie is celebrating this find with me. I am crazy over these tiny tart treasures. I love them in everything. I remember that grandma Maude grew red ones and white ones. I don’t recall her having black ones. Maybe she did. We would help pick them, and they were always ripen all at once. I thought of them as bobble earrings. All of the bobbles had to be pulled off of the earring without bursting any of the juicy fruit. It was such fun! But, I did not like eating them at all. They were exceedingly sour to my tender palate, then!

Isn’t Beavie sweet? We had so much crazy and silly fun this day. So many people were laughing with us. The gal in the store thought we were nuts and totally enjoyed Beavie’s modelling for his shots. (I was prepared for disapproval and thankful for her spirit!)

There are fresh sour cherries for sale here, too, above, right. That is so rare. I do grow them in my back yard, but have yet to have a really good crop. This would have been the year, but the unheard of snowstorm on May 29th shrivelled most of the blossoms.

Have you ever seen flat peaches? I have not. Nor, has Beavie. These were advertised as flat white peaches and they were everywhere around Paris. Even the little grocery stores had them out front on display with the other fruit in season.

See how flat they are, below, right?

The figs are in season here, too, Lequan (below, left)!

The almonds, below, can be found like this (in their original pod) at the Italian Centre Shops in Edmonton, usually around this time of year, too.

I have never seen zucchini this shape (round, below), either! There is such an interesting variety of produce here.

Remember to double click if you want to compare prices at home to here.

There were two or three specialty wine stores here. I didn’t see any of them busy, but we were gone by 11:30 am. They actually didn’t even appear to be open. However, we are not wine drinkers, so didn’t try to enter any.

Ah, we bought some red currants and are now stopping for some cheese.

I know. Where does one start? Beavie was just quivering with delight and for the most part, sniffing satisfied him just like taking photos satisfies me. One cannot possibly eat as much as one would like!

And looking and sniffing and listening is such a pleasure. Truly.

There was a foreign Stilton, but it wasn’t the one from Neil’s Yard Dairy, in London. Most of the cheeses were local artisan cheeses and all begged to be tasted: rigorously. We bought too much, but it seemed like so little at the time.

Vanja’s treat to himself cheesewise is always the big holey Swiss. He is adventurous only through tasting whatever I buy.

Above left, is a cheese cake. I believe it was a savoury cheese cake. There were no tastes in the Rue de Cler Market. Anywhere. That was not surprising once I realized what kind of market it was. But, also, disappointing. At a market, I want to taste to learn and to decide what to buy. No tastes here.

There was a house made butter at the back. Not from this cheese house, though. However, it was not the artisan butter David Lebovitz is crazy over.

As I have seen in Dubrovnik, in Neal’s Yard Dairy, and in most European cheese markets, quince paste (below, left) is sold as the ultimate compliment to cheese. It keeps a very long time, and I still have some from Neal’s that I bought in March.

I love all kinds of cheese, but the French are particularly famous for their artisan soft cheeses, so bought the round below (left) and the gal at the counter then recommended the heart shaped cheese, above, right. She said she liked it better and that it was (as I understood her) a famous French cheese. It was fantastic. The St. Felicien cheese was a bit too tangy and stronger, though it was not a strong cheese at all. Nice, but not nearly the nutty and buttery depth of flavour the Neufchatel with the AOP approval had. I was so happy I tried them both, and so sad that half of each ended up in the hotel fridge upon our departure from Paris two days later.

I had to drag Beavie out by his tail. Who knew? I do understand. I have such an interest and love for all kinds of artisan cheeses.

And now the fish. We were not buying any for the picnic, but with a shop like this, we had to stop and ogle. I know I say this in every post that I write about fish: I have never seen such gorgeous fish! It is true every time!

If you are interested in reading what each item is, remember to right click or double click to enlarge each image.

I asked what this was, but the man did not have the English word. He said “squid”, but we found squid. Maybe they are cuttlefish? Does anyone know? I will look it up when I get home. They were so fresh, they almost jumped in my bag and begged me to take them home!

We were investigating everything, when out of the corner of my eye, something on the ice bed moved! I jumped. Then we saw it again! The crab imbedded in the ice was alive. Look at the three photo of it, below. You will see it is moving as each photo is a bit different. It was clearly camera shy because it stopped performing as soon as I started shooting it!

The photo above, right, is identified and priced, below, right. It was in a tank with other alien looking creatures.

The shop and the side opposite the ice bed was laden with “fishy” items made to take home. Such delectable gourmet dishes that I was completely speechless. (That is why Vanja loves shopping with me at places like this!)

Another savoury salmon cup in gelée: stunning. Unmolded fish terrines in gelée, below.

And there was Davoli right beside the fish store. It was completely set up now, with the outside table selling hot prepared items like the meatball stuffed tomatoes, below, right.

Here,we purchased the charcuterie for the picnic. The Andouille below, left looked lovely. Thank goodness we only got one slice. The taste was so terrible it is not possible to politely or honestly describe it here! Suffice it to say that seeing this photo turns my stomach (and Vanja’s). My grandmother used to make a gelée she called head cheese, as did many prairie farmers. This terrine, below, right, reminded me of it though the ingredients are completely different!

Vanja loves fine patés. We bought a slice of the one, above, left. It was really delicious. He was crazy over it and devoured almost all of it later during lunch.

A slice of each of the salami’s to the right, above. Both were very tasty. The smaller one was better.

Above, right, also looked like a savoury cheese cake. Very rustic. I loved the look and will have to investigate recipes, though it is hard to beat a variety of hard cheeses on a plate.

I have the pans for the baba’s below. Never made them. Yet. And the gnocchi! Isn’t it gorgeous? There is that finely shredded long cheese again, garnishing it.

This is what the famous Croque Monsieur should look like. These were the best I have seen.

Foie Gras is definitely one of the top 10 items on the foods I love list: and, back onto the street. Phew! That was intense!

Just around the corner from where Vanja had coffee is an Epicerie where I want to snoop into, but the delivery guy has been standing outside of the store for about an hour so far with his boxes all unloaded beside him. It is not open, so I snoop at the macarons in Christophe Roussel. It was just opened and the gal was flustered. “Come back when I have organized the window!” The flavours were exotic and everything looked incredible.

There was a red strawberry chocolate bar, and look: The candied oranges I made earlier this year for mom’s 80th are dipped in chocolate and selling for 90 Euro per kilogram. It is a good thing to know how to cook!

I did succumb and left with a small bag of macarons for the picnic.

Finely, it opened and we bought some mixed spices. “No photos, please.” I will post all of my purchases when I get home. It was an interesting store, but nothing like G. Detou or anything like I had expected.

We stopped quickly at the bakery to buy our baguettes and I purchased a piece of an egg flan as I had seen them everywhere and wanted to taste one. This one had sour cherries lining the bottom.

Oh! There’s the other cheese shop! I knew there were two! This one was supposed to be a very special one that drew Parisians from all over the city. I stepped in. I stepped out.

The smell was horrid. It was like sour and bad rotting milk. I couldn’t possibly spend a minute there.

I didn’t realize that we were so close the the Eiffel Tower at Rue Cler, but Vanja had his plan. So, with the Lenôtre bag filled with our goodies we trecked down a couple or streets and over to the Champs de Mars for our picnic under the Eiffel Tower!

Past a couple of charming neighbourhood shops.

Past the charming and repetitive Parisian architecture.

And, voilà! There it is! There it is! Now, I have been up the tower about 5 times, and Vanja, twice. But, this was Beavie’s first time, and the first time is absolutely thrilling. You don’t imagine you will ever lose that thrill, but you do.

Past the Rue Belgrade. (The even spell Beograd like the Americans do, in Paris.)

And here we are! In the park under the Tour d’Eiffel!

Can you see Beavie on Vanja’s shoulder, above? Me, either. So, look below!

I wanted to get our picture together, each with a French baguette. We should have been wearing a tam and riding a bike with it under our arm, but I am happy with this. However, how silly of us! We were right there. Right under the Eiffel Tower with our baguettes and did not get it in the background. What was I thinking? I would have never done that on earlier trips! We will just have to do this again!

I know Vanja had visions of us on a blanket in the park having a traditional picnic. But, we hadn’t any blankets, and I wasn’t about to sit on the grass as I have a cleanliness fetish, so we unpacked everything on a lovely bench overlooking the park and the tower.

The kind young gentleman we bothered, took our photo again. And by the food this time. I still forgot to have the tower behind us!

Beavie is famished and dove onto the food table!

We over did it, didn’t we? But it was such a wonderful moment in time. Ripping gorgeous crusty bread from the baguette and topping it with a dollop of creamy artisan French cheese.

Then a cherry tomato or a handful of tart glistening currants. The water was mine and the wine, Vanja’s. What is a picnic in Paris without wine? (Even though we don’t drink it?) Somehow, like magic, he really enjoyed it here.

The meats above were all perfect. The one below, never ever buy it! And the cheeses…

Just look at them. Oh, they were so tasty and creamy and tangy and buttery and nutty and lush. Such a dream.

My favourite photo of the food is below: postcard perfect!

The park is a busy place. The play school children were going somewhere. A gypsey accosted us with the “Is this your ring?” scam right while we were sitting on the bench having our picnic. This was the second time for me (the first was in the line at the Louvre) and the second time for Vanja this trip. Then he said he was hungry and would be share. “Non!” “Non!” and double “Non!” We give our money to organizations that help the poor, instead!

And look at this sour cherry flan! It was incredibly heavy and very filling. I could not eat much of it at this point. It was not sweet at all, by Western standards. I enjoyed it a great deal.

Beavie was distracted by the pigeons, too! We had fun feeding them. That was probably as bad as giving the gypsies money would be.

Now, for the French macarons with the exotic flavours….

Even Beavie was happy to have only one bite of each. They were almost flavourless. Truly! They were “OK”. If I had made them, I would have been happy with them, but not thrilled. They were really not very good at all. And the exotic flavour labels felt like a scam! I am certain that was not the intent. But, there was barely an almond flavour detectable in these cookies. The caramel chocolate one was tasty, but more like a chocolate bar. Definitely a novel way to preserve the shelf live of a macaron!

Now, it looked like there were some performers setting up something in the park. Not a moment of boredom, here!

But, we were fed, edified, tired, and wanted to go back to the room for a rest before going out for the evening. Vanja had packed up and was coming to meet me at the flowers where we walked back through the beautiful park to the metro for our hotel.

I never imagined that one day I would have a lovely market fresh picnic in the park under the Eiffel Tower with my wonderful husband. Never. It was a dream I never dreamt, yet it happened. And, now I will never forget it.

(And Beavie? Well, Beavie is still speaking with a French accent. He had the time of his life!)

Back again this week to buy groceries and snaffle up some of Edgar Farms famous asparagus. Next week they will have their famous pea tendrils. Sundog Farms had some this week. YUM! I headed to the very South end of the market to pick up my duck breasts from Greens Eggs & Ham, and some duck fat, baby almond potatoes, their new duck paté and of course, their famous mixed greens: the best in the city.

On my way back, I spotted a booth of olives and olive tepanades from Peru. The large purple gem was my favourite. Very similar to a Kalamata, yet more mellow: very meaty and full of deep flavour. Definitely stop by there for a taste if you enjoy olives.

I was in line for my asparagus when they rang the opening bell, and the market was not very busy. It is picking up. I am not the only diehard out in the cold fresh air!

Here are the beautiful hydrangeas that Sharon featured last week. They are still here, still beautiful and still waiting for a good home. I may just get back and pick up a couple this week!

Kudos to the gals at the Axis coffee booth. They saw me heading down the market and called out, “How about a great coffiee to warm you up?” How about it? Perfect. I am not a Starbucks triple roasted bean gal. I love a really rich coffee, but certainly not over roasted. So, they chose the bean and poured me a cup. “Two dollars please.” And it was the best coffee I have had in ages. I will definitely be back. The compition is right beside them, too, as they are situated in front of Credo.

Teh one I had was on the far right on the photo below.

Next up: Confetti Sweets.

So pretty in pink. I was attracted by her booth immideately. I bougth a chocolate chip cookie. That usually tells all about a cookie baker’s prowess in the kitchen: the signature chocolate chip cookie. It was good.

I took a sample of the coconut square and the almond rocha square: both deadly delicious and dense.

Hello, Mary! I missed her last week as she was away in Parma at an Italian Food Show. She certainly does live the life!  Mary has a booth called Citrus where she sells her famous layered dip. It freezes beautifully and is a great homemade treat to pull out of the freezer for impromptu visitors.

Above, Mary uis visiting with Shirley, The Queen of Tarts. I was so happy to meet her. I have coveted every single item she bakes and sells many times. There is always a line up in front of her booth andn today was the first time I was able to get close enough to take a few photos or most of her delectable items. Her desserts are also on the menu at the Culina Restaurants in the city, and if you want a top notch treat for home or for a gift, this is the place to buy from.

From homemade lemon curd to bars to biscuits to pies and cakes, she has it all.

Her tarts are my favourite. I can make my own. I just love the way they look, and I have sampled. Incredible.

It is her savoury tarts and pies that really inspire me. I rarely make these kinds of things, and need to. They are so delicious and really easy to make. But, what a wonderful option for a snack while shopping at the market. YUMMERS!

Hello, Marie! Marie is managing the market this year. Does she look familiar? She and I baked Red Fife wheat bread together recently.

Sylvan Star Cheese is new to the market this year and a must stop shop! The famous Grizzly Gouda was there and I bought it and some of the award winning Grueyer fo rthe asparagus tart I was planning of making for dinner.

Double click on any image to see the kinds and prices of the cheese available at the market.

The fresh cheese curds are good. They are chewy and salty and nice on a charcuterie platter. They are not a fresh curd, but it is a young cheese.

On my way out, all shopping done, I notice the market and weather picking up. Truffle-licious. What is this?

These fellows specialize in all kinds of food products that they make themselves flavoured with truffle oil. Again, I cook and use truffle oil already, but this is a great place for those that want to try something different.

You’ve got to buy some Berkshire boar from Irving’s farm. I just stopped by to say “Hi!”, but I have to have my supply on hand. Love the cured bacon, pork belly, and all cuts he has. I have ordered extra fatty ground pork for making Sarma and it is deadly delicious.

Doesn’t Lindsey, above, look like the quintessential Farmer’s Market shopper with her cute little rubbers and basket? She worked for Sundog’s Farm last year, and I was glad she greeted me!

It’s 9:45. Time to scoot over to Duchess Bakeshop for a coffee and a treat and I want to buy a little gift for a friend before we meet at 1pm today for another coffee! Duchess is the perfect place to buy a special treat for a special person and the perfect place for a little decadent pleasure on your own, too.

The Duke and Duchess (cakes: large and mini) were there.

Though I arrived at two minutes after 10, the place was already full. A gal helped me bring in a table from outside to sit on at so I could enjoy my coffee and play with my cookies. But, first, I just had to look. I haven’t been her since late last fall.

Giselle had told me when I interviewed her near their opening that her Lemon Meringue Cake is very special. I still have not tried this as Vanja does not like lemon desserts. She now has varied madeleines similar to her shortbread flavours. I have tried these and they are perfect little teacakes.

The Paris-Brest in the middle above was new to me. Hazelnut cream and pastry: a perfect treat for Vanja. I never got a bite, but he said it was really yummy.

The sliced Brioche Pepin were calling my name. Seriously. Look at the soft dough with the glistening sheen filled with creamy goodness. These are similar to what I have seen at the Flour Bakery in Boston, but much better. I believe this is a very rare brioche and one definitely worth indulging in. My sister would agree. I gifted the brioche and croissants to her.

I also make my own pies so no desire to buy any of these, but look at how fat and tempting Giselle makes them! Absolutely gorgeous. Now that is prairie food.

The Brioche Pepin is doing a little table modelling, above.

I was oblivious to my surroundings once I was seated. Out onto the table one by one marched my purchases: cleaned hands, of course. I didn’t taste them any of these below, but I will be back. And look at the photos. Need I say more?

Crystal clear cold water filled with lemon and orange slices seems to be the new big refresher this Spring and Summer. Just looking at it is refreshing. Now, for my nemisis: the French Macaron! Giselle is truly a master at these. There are so many more flavours. FUN! In order, left to right, top to bottom: matcha tea, strawberry, pistachio, rose, orange blossom, and maple. Yes. I got one of each of all she had, so there are even more to come! I also bought an assortment for Teresa to enjoy.

I wanted to eat them all, but didn’t, and couldn’t. You will see there is also coconut, salted caramel, lemon, lavender and chocolate (filled).

The latte is lovely and warm. The macarons sweet and chewy. First, the coconut (with eyeballs rolling back in my head), next the match green tea (too subtle to identify), and then the strawberry (a little artificial compared to most, but good). Now, some coffee and a peek around.

Back to my little box of delicately filled shells: the pistachio has a green filling now and is a very subtle pistachio flavour. I ate the entire macaron just trying to taste it! The maple shocked me as the shell was crisp and broke into the tender chewy mellowy goodness with a stong, but not overpowering hit of maple flavour. I was hooked and I am not a huge maple fan. The orange blossom won my heart: fresh and bright. I packed back some of the halves. Left the ones I had tried before to take home, and…

…gifts and treats in hand, propelled out of Duchess on a happy sugar high, I am off to a little lèche-vitrine (window licking) at Chintz. It is the perfect indoor compliment to my stop at Wellington’s yesterday.

At Chintz, Judy (my sister) called, and I stopped by for a short visit where I shared my splendour from Duchess with her much to her dismay (and hopefully later, satisfaction).

The off to the Italian Centre Shop to meet Teresa for yet another coffee to catch up on her trip from the Parma food show. I was all coffeed out, but had a great visit and then was off to do my final shopping. After the Farmer’s Markets, the Italian Centre Shop is where I buy the bulk of our family groceries. What is not carried here, I buy at Superstore. I do try to keep it local and then Canadian. I really believe that is important. I say this seriously while I buy a lot of Italian and ethnic foods from all over the world here. However, if I can find similar items produced locally, that will be what we eat.

A couple of exciting finds on Saturday here were the fresh morels! I have never had a fresh morel mushroom before, so they went into my bag. I had purchased some hen in the woods from Mona’s earlier at the outdoor market, and these would be great with them. There are always a lot of lovely peppers, and they have had Black Garlic for quite some time now. I have it, but have not used it yet, and am looking forward to tasting it and discovering how to use it. Ideas are always welcome!

There are always specials here and the produce is lovely and reasonably priced. The service is second to none and I love the intimate and neighbourhood feeling I have while shopping here. Today one of the specials was truffled rice.

The cheeses are always changing in the young cheese cabinet and constantly worth keeping an eye one. Vince and Colleen introduced Vanja and I to these lovely olives from Nice: Picholini Green Olives. They are addictive.

I bought the last loaf of their famous loaf with a hole and took it home to make a farm fresh dinner for Vanja and mom and dad this evening.

And that is just what I did. The end of the perfect day out was:

• making the asparagus tart with Edgar’s Farm Fresh asparagus and Sylvan Star’s award winning gouda (recipe to follow, soon)
  
• creating a wonderful mixed salad from Greens Eggs & Hams Greens
• oven roasting their baby almond potatoes in a little olive oil and duck fat (will be included with the asparagus tart recipe)
  
• frying the fresh morels with the hen in the woods mushrooms in butter
  
• and barbecuing some ribs that I had marinating at home
• all juices soaked up with the wonderful crusty bread
  

A perfect day.

Caveat: this is a long post. I wrote it is me to remember and for you if you have been or are going. If not, scroll down to the food.

We arrived in London at 9:30, bought Oyster Cardsfor each of us (for zones one and two only, and the best bargain for city transport), and took the slooooow tube into the city. We arrived to our hotel around 11ish, but could not check in until much later. We had planned to go to Portabello Market together this afternoon. We had our evening dinner booked at St. John’s long ago. Vanja had been unable to get a ticket for a soccer game from home, but we had chatted with a family clearly all dressed for the afternoon game this day, and they told us that Vanja could easily get a ticket outside of the stadium. He was pumped. This day, Chelsea was playing, and it would be an excellent game. All tickets had been long sold out, as it was a play off game.

So, plans changed. We found ourselves back at the St. James’s Park Underground Station a few minutes after leaving it to head for our hotel! Vanja was headed one way, to the game. I was headed the other, to the market. His train came, and he was off! Mine didn’t. And it didn’t. And it didn’t. After 20 minutes, I asked the attendent. It was a Saturday and the Circle Line was closed for construction on most Saturdays this time of year. The Underground attendent service was superb all over London; she gave me perfect instructions. So, off I ventured, all by myself, in this stately, and massive city. My first time here.

But I was not afraid!

After my Underground adventure, and it truly was that: very easy to follow and find where to go, but a maze of deep escalators and levels of service, I arrived at Notting Hill Station. I could not believe I had just arrived in London, and here I was already! I pumped up the stairs and out into the fresh, cool London drizzle and breathed it all in. Nothing looked too “Londony”. There was even  a Burgar King across the street! I followed my instinct from my earlier map search and crossed that street and went over a block and then asked where I would find the market. “Just keep going down the street, and it is around the corner.” I looked up, and this is what I saw on the street I had just come into. I was excited. This was looking very “Londony”!

I remember som Spanish teachers from Madrid staying with us for a month a couple of years ago going nuts over a yellow school bus and telling us when we drove them to our home from the airport that our street was “just like the neighbourhood on Desparate Housewives!” We sure laughed, and now, her I am, having the same excitement over a London Taxi. Gorgeous! And the colours on this street and the boldness in the neighbourhood.

I was looking for William’s Bookstore and his flat with no luck, but saw many charming shops looking very similar!

I kept walking and walking, away from the colourful busy street, down a very quiet and lovely residential street after turning the corner… for quite a long while. Eventually (and fortunately at the perfect moment, right at this Kensington sign), I met a gardener working on a flower bed and asked again for directions. He grinned and pointed to the busy line of people a block behind me up the street. If you look, you will see them right behind the green box, just past the sign. Hilarious. And, more luck. I was actually at one end of the beginning of the market.

I was not expecting such a crowd on such a grey day. I loved the British Flag umbrella. I was around (in junior high school, actually) during the British fashion rage all over canada and North America. After the Beatles hit the air, they were followed by a long line-up of British music groups. Stores filled with clothing decked out in pop culture icons and symbols: the British Flag being a hugely popular pattern at that time. Doc Martens had just hit the market way back then shortly after, Elton John was wearing his platforms. This was the Britian of my childhood inside of my head. It was not the Britian of today. But, the umbrella awakened that longing within.

The antique galleries were everywhere. I was excited to see what was in them. As it was Saturday, the street was also lined with vendors, and the little shops had tables out front laden with their collectables.

These kinds of keepsakes were a rarety in western Canada. To see this much vintage jewlery on one table was startling. So many gorgeous pieces, and many we would find highly priced and of greater value at home as they are not so plentiful.

But, prices certainly were not cheap. However, definitely better than buying off of e-bay! Watching the people became as interesting to me as the buildings and the wares.

Along side the little shops, every now and then, there was a miniature antique mall that you could walk into, around, and through to another door than would talke you out to the street a little way down. Inside would be a myriad of vendors with a tiny nook each and a small table filled with their collections to sell. It was hot and stuffy and crowded in these. I honestly felt quite sorry for the working conditions of these vendors. But, it was their choice, and maybe they made a lot of money. I did not imagine that, but something brought them all here.

I was thrilled to find the little toy soldiers in the British uniforms below to the left laying on their stomachs, rifles drawn and aimed. It immediately reminded me of Robert Louis Stevenson’s poem, “The Land of Counterpane“. It is one I memorized when I was six or seven, and I imagined playing with toy soldiers in the sheets like he did. I had farm animals and cowboys. Not toy soldiers, so I played with those when I was sick in bed as a child, and always thought of this poem.

I have a love for miniatures, as well, so this entire collection captured me. The lady sitting by it was delighted I wanted to photograph it. These are toys of a time when one’s imagination led the play. Today’s child is truly missing the poetry of that time.

It did appear that above the shops there were flats where people actually lived. The traffic along this road must be very annoying to the tennants above., yet what a charming area to live in.

I kept taking photos of behind me and in front of me as the line of people seemed to never end. There was the occasional side street filled with a quiet charm and rows of cars!

I was eyeing the silver and mesmerized by the beauty of each glistening piece when I suddenly realized that I was peering into the back of a truck set up like a little shop. This fellow was smart to be able to just drive in and already be set up! It actually took a few minutes to get a shot as it was consistently crowded with shoppers investigating his wares.

And when I came out of the door from one of the little antique malls adjacent to his truck, the owner was standing right in front of me, dressed to match it. I had to have a photo of him. Just at the moment I went to shoot, he looked at me. I was embarrassed. His mouth curled into a small grin and he nodded. I won’t forget him. His truck and he made a powerful impression on me this day. Can you imagine a formal silver tea set from grandmother’s table now hanging off of the side of a truck?

I have my collections. I love china and silver and knick knacks and keep sakes, but I was looking for nothing in particular. I was so charmed, and thoroughly enjoyed seeing so many unique pieces though  I did begin to feel overwhelmed. There was just so very much, and so many similar items at different places selling for close, and then vastly different, prices.

I asked questions about what this was and what that was and every person was more than happy to fill me in.Above, just under the fork, is a set of six gorgeous marrow bone utensils well over 100 years old that were for sale for 70 pounds. I held them. Admired them. Turned them, and really thought about them. I had never eaten marrow bone, but was going to eat it tonight at St. John. I wanted these, but it was selfish. No, silly. That was my thinking there, my first day. And, I believed, truly, that a modern version would be for sale at the restaurant. It was such a novel hit that this would be a logical marketing concept, me thought. Wrong. I truly regret not buying there. They were very special. The woman told me it was rare to get a matching set of six.  I really would cherish them.

I found these gals later in front of their shop. They were dancing around touting their adorable cupcakes and having a lot of good fun.

A crowd at a corner with noses pressed against the glass drew me over to see what the attraction was. Sewing machines. Hundreds, maybe thousands, of vintage and antique Singer sewing machines. Instantly captivated, and face to face with my grandmother’s old treadle machine brought spontaneously forward from the depths of my memory, I found my nose pressed against the glass, too, investigating the various beauties.

I was not allowed in the corner door, but found another with a warm host allowing photos and willing to answer the questions everyone was asking: Where do these come from? What store is this? How many are there? How old are they? Who thought of this? Why are these here?

Though he was friendly, he really didn’t know answers to any of those questions. All Saints Spitalfields is a chain clothing store that moved into the Portobello Market location just this year. It has created a local outrage as the space used to house “more than 150 traders, including a 94-year-old woman, who made a living there…”. And there is a very real concern that the integrity of the neighbourhood and the market may be compromised by more such businesses.

I am beginning to wonder just how far this market goes. I have been walking for a long while and there are people in both directions on this long and winding road as far as my eye can see.

A little side street nearby was brimming with china of all kinds. Precious porcelain pieces all lined up row upon row upon row. I didn’t see anything in the Sweet Pea pattern that I so love. I didn’t look intently for it. But, the collectibles that are incredibly expensive on e-bay, I am sure can be found here somewhere. Everything else was here. Wedgewood was in abundance; Royal Doulton’s old patterns piled like waterfalls.

Finally, I asked a gal and her mom at a little side table how long the market street was. They both just looked at one another and laughed. Neither had ever walked the length. I was told that after the antique market is the fresh food market, then the eating and cooked foods booths, followed by a flea market and then other open air marketed items after that. “It just goes on and on and on for miles.”

Shortly after, I came upon this sign.

I was also tickled to find this collection of gorgeous toy vehicles.  They were really beautiful and I have never made any effort to squelch my fetish for childhood toys.

Even on this grey day in London, people were out and about, busy and bustling, happy and friendly. There was a small surge in front of me to a door on my left when I noticed the first opportunity for a coffee. I immediately followed. It was mid afternoon, and I hadn’t had my morning coffee. The gal in front of me was very friendly when I asked what the line up was about. This was a famous cupcake shop. She could tell I was not impressed, and then told me she had been in NYC to Magnolia’s (as had I) and that these cupcakes were ten times better than anything there. I enjoyed a lively conversation with her, recalling that Lauren and I stopped at Magnolias on our way back from the Guggenheim and bought two different cupcakes. Both were light and tasteless and simply conveyors of overly sweet icing.

As we got closer to the door, I was delighted by the charming window display. I was told that I must have the Red Velvet cupcake from here. It is the best I will ever have.

So many things so new to me. First, there is no inside seating on Saturdays here, simply due to the crowd. Two outside tables only. And, if you buy to go, everything is cheaper. This was such a surprise to me. You are encouraged to buy and leave! Double click on the photos to see the little cards describing each treat with the considerable difference in the stay and go pricing.

I really enjoyed this little spot. I love pink. The brownies won me over. I did not buy one. More Whoopie Pies. I really don’t see the appeal of these. Cake with icing in a different form, I guess.

I loved the pink coffee cup I received. The service was exceptional. The customers in line were also friendly and even parted the line without me asking for me to photograph the showcase.

Little uses of the English language is different in Canada. We do use the word “rubbish”, but rarely to refer literally to garbage. We use the word “garbage” for that. Usually the word “rubbish” is used similarly to the word “nonsense” in Canada.

I did buy a Red Velvet cupcake, and it was packed away in a sweet little box. I was warmed by the fragrant aromatic coffee as I sipped my pink cup feeling much more at home now continuing my trek down the market.

I spotted a neighbourhood meat store and swerved over to take a peek at what was selling here. It was immediately apparent that what kind of animal was important and the cuts were considerably different than I am familiar with at home.

Yes, people living here actually do eat meat pies! (See the two pies below on top of the stereo placed there for a quite moment by the table vendor.)

Yes, even gas masks!

A corner crêpe stand. I must be getting close to the food area.

Yes. Right across the street, but I didn’t spot it at first, due to the crowd. The open air market is as busy as the antique area.

There is something about fresh produce that I find aesthetically appealing. I am consistently drawn to the vibrant colours and shapes though I have seen them a myriad of times before. Each time, no matter whether it is a familiar market, or a foreign one, I am exhilerated.

The lemons, mint, garlic and parsnips above look so fresh; the leeks wrapped in brown paper, so wholesome and verdant.

The Tomato Basil Bruschetta caught my eye. I think I have never seen bruschetta that was as rustic and wholesome and as desirable. No one sells this at an open booth in an Edmonton Market, yet it was completely appealing. A perfect burst of fresh farm flavours for a snack at a market like Portobello where you are walking and shopping. There was an impressive stack of the most wonderful over-sized loaves of crusty brown bread at one end of the table. There was a hefty basket bulging with fresh ripe glistening tomatoes. There were stacks of large fragrant lush green basil leaves, plump and tender. The baby arugula was pristine and perfect, layered in a large bowl. Bottles of fruity extra virgin olive oil and thick balsamic vinegar erect on the table. Each serving, as below, was made to order, and cost five pounds.

I ached for a taste, but there is no way I could eat all of that right now. I stood watching the gregarious attendant serve his guests with a passion and flare that would not let me escape.

There was a help yourself salt shaker, and grilled marinated vegetables in a plastic tub. No garlic (that I saw). The sea salt and the garlic would have made this completely irresistible. Still, look at that smile. And this customer did have the appearance of a regular.

Of course, the server caught my eye: And for you, madame? Blush.  Sorry, I am just watching. Triple blush. The brush was dipped deeply into the olive oil more than a few times and drizzled over the dish. Oh, my!

I did wait only until the gentleman was served but could have stood watching the pleasure of this man with the simplest and most satisfying ingredients interact with his customers a much longer while. Again, just look at that grin.

Meats, and cheeses, spreads, and more vegetables…. then cheeses from France!

And a Nigerian booth with the most interesting looking food in massive wok type pans. I watched and sniffed. Very new and different and appetizing aromas… and a line up: so many new and unknown cuisines for me!

Artisan baked goods. I have never seen bread pudding look like this (below, left). This booth was really incredible. Baking all the amazing homey items, and then getting them here would be a huge undertaking. There must be considerable waste, too. (Who thinks like that? – me!)

The apple strudel looked so different than we are used to in Western Canada. But, I have seen the real thing made with the most transparent sheets of homemade pastry in Vienna and in the Eastern Block countries. Nothing can top it. This one certainly looks like it was made with a whole lotta love, but the crust is too thick for my liking.

The artisan breads and sausage rolls had me hault in my space for more than a second or two. What beautiful breads!

There were flavourful and colourful stuffed or filled savory pies and then there were flavoured cornbreads!

The Sweet Corn Fritters (below, left) looked like savory cookies. What a concept! The Easter Simnel Cakes were wrapped so beautifully. I investigated these as much as possible through the wrapping. I was surprised, upon return, that this English tradition did not cross the pond with so many others that are part of my Canadian heritage. I have never heard of, or seen one of these. (The link is a very interesting read, though.)

And then the sweet pies and cakes were so gorgeous and quite simple: a wonderful tribute to Spring!

As were the Hyacinths!

And my sojourn continues: up and down the market street there were people as far as the eye could see! Incredible.

And never a dull moment: wooden buckets full of condiments, similar to what I found in Harrod’s on the food floor. Each item looked fresh and tasty. How much volume would need to pass by these big tubs to empty them daily?

The garlic reminded me of the marinated cloves I ate in Firenze at the inside market in the old town a couple of years ago. I didn’t buy any. I have made them at home very close to the original that I tasted. I love them. Talk about contagious.

At the other end of the open tub tables a fellow was making fresh chorizo sausage sandwiches with your choice of condiments.

And then I saw the first (of several) gigantic paella pans. I thought the one Vanja’s cousin used last year was the biggest there was. WRONG! These blew me away!

Oh, my! Look at how many there are! And the food in them was disappearing almost faster than they could make it. Every pan they made was a different variety and we were each invited to taste the wonderfully aromatic flavour with a plastic spoon once it  was ready for sale. The one I tried transported me to the Adriatic Coast and the fresh mussel lunch I was enjoying last summer right beside the sea at Perast.

I was able to see how they made them. The sauce was prepared and flavourful and then the rice was poured in followed by more water, like so (six photos below).

The one in the foreground with the squid has just had all ingredients (rice and water, above) added to it. The others are ready to serve. The gal making this, tastes it to ensure the flavour is still strong. The savory sausage and rosemary paella looks so creamy and the mussels with shrimp,  green peas and red peppers looks magnificently flavourful.

Let me tell you, it was really hard to walk away from this kind of spectacular food spectacle. Very exhilarating for the Canadian Foodie to be watching something so aromatic, colourful, flavourful, and exotic made so artfully with the most simple ingredients and put together so quickly. Wowzers!

I lifted my head up. Time to start back if I am to meet Vanja at the hotel by 5 o’clock. I have been here about 3 hours, and have to walk all of the way back and through the tube to the hotel in an hour. I have no idea how long it will take. Turning around, I see Starbucks! What is Starbucks doing in the Portabello Market! Isn’t that blasphemy? If I was a Londoner, I would think so. As a tourist, I think so. Let me drink London coffee, at least at the market!

So, I turned around by the Paella tables, and headed back. You can see above that the road winded on and on and on, as far as my eye could see, crowded with people the entire distance. Maybe, someday….

In the meantime, I can now investigate what I missed that was on the other side of the road. Look at this beautiful fish. Such variety!

There is definitely no place to sit, so the little stoops on the side streets are perfect for a short break. I didn’t feel I needed one. Too much adrenalin rushing through me with the exhilaration of being at such an amazing market with so much to see. I didn’t want to miss a thing. I was going to, but that was fine. It was a feast for the birds, too!

On the other side of the fresh food market, the spring artichokes reminded me of being at Carmel last summer seeing fields of them grow.

Ah! Now, this is my London. The one living in my head from the late sixeties and early seventies when the British pop groups took the world by storm.

Back past the barrels… and fruit… and street entertainers…

Enlarge the photo below. I have never seen or heard of toasted tea cakes. What do they taste like? Crackers? Cookies? Biscuits?

The fresh air is sweet with the scent of Easter and Spring…. and, look! (below, left): french fries in newspaper!

A little voyeuristic, I know. But look at these three lovely young gals in fur, cashmere, and suede. I could not resist capturing their moment at the market. I could write an entire novel around these three characters. The storybook nouveau riche  one would expect to find strolling along the antique market on Nottinghill on a Saturday afternoon. Here they are eating crab claws from the booth below.

Shrimp or claws? By the truckload!

And I am winding my way back gently up the hill. I see the gals that were earlier selling their cupcakes at their table selling more sweets.

Oh, the vintage dinky toys. At least, that is what we called them. And the crowds, as interesting as the wares.

Vintage leather basketballs and footballs. I wonder how your soccer game is going, Vanja. And more toy soldiers… and so many miniature delights that captured me for hours and hours as a child.

I have never seen so many vintage cameras. This is truly the place for almost anything. If you are collecting and it is not here, someone will surely know who to ask to help you find it.

How I wanted to stop by these books. I did stop, dead. And seriously thought about sitting awhile and browsing through each one until I found “mine”. I have a book fetish and am completely thrilled to find an old book with someone’s personal notes through out it, and maybe a glimpse into the past through the eyes of the reader, too.

Gee… do you think this pair might be a little mismatched. I had to take a photo. One was so into the music and the other clearly suffering through it. But it sounded great.

There were not that many street performers. Just a few.

I have crossed the street that I first entered the market street on and have decided to walk it down all the way to the road I first turned on just to “see what I could see”.

Why did we all take photos of this? Maybe because there was no time to stop and look at the plaques and licences. Surely because it is novel.

I follow the crowd down the pretty street. Many walking in the middle of the narrow road. I, on the sidewalk peering into little English gardens and feeling the moss on the bricks.

And one pretty little pink tree dancing in the splattering rain. What is that? A plaque between two windows and people photographing it?

I am a huge Orwell fan and must have read Animal Farm 50 or more times as I taught it in my grade 9 classes for years. Brilliant novel. Metaphors in layers.

I loved how at the end of the street the buildings rounded with the corner.

A cute colourful shop that the three little sweets came out of. The Gate Hotel rounds around the corner and is quite a reasonably priced place though I didn’t peek in.

So pretty. I have no idea what it is. I am on the street around the corner now where I first entered and saw the taxis, heading back to the intersecting road where the Nodding Hill Gate station is.

Look at all the double decker buses. What fun. And kewpie dolls! Oh, my. I remember mine. I got her at the Red Deer Fair one year and she was by my bedroom window for many years as a child when I was still sleeping with my sister in the upstairs bedroom. Honestly, I felt the same pulling of the heartstrings seeing her here in this window as I felt loving her as a child.

This one is for you, Vanja! Borek! I found some borek here! Crossing the street to the Underground, I turn and see Burger King! Then, KFC (lower left)!! Who needs it? Really! We are in London Town!

Back on the subway headed for the hotel to prepare for dinner my head is filled with my first afternoon in London. By myself, at the market. I had the perfect afternoon. I hope Vanja enjoyed the Chelsea soccer game as much!

When I got back to the hotel, it was clear Vanja had a fantastic time at his game and had an amazing experience acquiring his ticket and spending his afternoon with the Chelsea fans in London. And Beavie? Well, Beavie was having a moment. I don’t know what I was thinking. I absolutely meant to bring Beavie with me.

Valerieeeee! I am your little ball of inspiration. Your metacognitive mirror. How ever did you manage without me in this big expansive city? I do NOT want to hear about it!

Take a closer look at the sign above. See anything unusual? The Brûlée Blog and I met on Saturday morning to enjoy the opening of the downtown city market for the 2010 season. We had never met before, so I brought Beavie, and she brought a little friend to meet him called Bebe. Can you see them in the sign above? If not, I have taken closeups for you below. Beavie was so excited to meet another furry friend that the was all over Bebe. And, I was so thrilled to finally meet Miss Brûlée Blog that I was wagging my tail almost as rapidly as Beavie was flapping his!

Did you get the picture? I’m dying here, Valerie! rants Beavie. “Hey, little buddy! I’m coming to the rescue,” reassures Bebe.

We propped them on a City Market post for their first photo, and in an attempt to give a warm “hello” hug, Beavie knocked over Bebe and gave him a warm wet nose rub. Miss Brûlée Blog has had Bebe since she was a young girl, and it was so sweet of her to bring him along! Aren’t they so cute?

We were to meet at the North end of the market at 9, and I found myself standing there, smiling and greeting everyone, not having a clue what Miss Brûlée Blog looked like. (I had tucked Beavie into my jacket for identification.) I am sure that everyone coming that morning thought this was the friendliest market they had ever visited! But, I could not keep my eyes off of the young green plants from Inspired Market Gardens. If I had known they would be at the North end entrance this year, I would have arrived 30 minutes earlier. Gwen is a wealth of information. She got my tomato plants all picked by providing me with detailed information about each plant. I am so excited. All of the tomato plants are heirloom varieties. I will identify which when I plant my garden and publish that post. Suffice it to say that I had seen most of these varieties for the first time last year at San Francisco’s Ferry Building Market.

In the middle of my purchase, Miss Brûlée Blog tapped my shoulder, and there she was! Big hug. Food does bring people together. I was so pleased to be spending this morning with her. She helped me cart my plants back to my car, and then we started our City Market experience. (After introducing Beavie and Bebe, of course.)

Sylvan Star Cheese! They are here this year! Fantastic. Planet Organic has been out of the Sylvan Star Grizzly for so long that I made a bee line to the booth to buy some. The lovely young lad smiled bashfully and told me that he forgot the cooler with the grizzly in it. He did have a large piece, but it was much too big for our needs, so I bought some of the Smoked Medium Gouda. I must say that the smoke on it is very delicate and the cheese is divine.

Brûlée then pointed out her favourite honey supplier. I usually buy from Lola Canola, but didn’t see her at the market on this day. I bought a small container of this honey. Brûlée’s suggestions and referrals have done well for me so far! I spotted a table I haven’t seen before, but she was here last year. Bamboche World Cuisine had a perky gal, Brygette McNamara, selling her wares of dips and spreads. So nice to get a taste before purchasing. This is necessary at a market. I bought a small package of her tomato, artichoke and olive spread. It is really delicious. I make everything like this myself, and tend to get great ideas from the market. But, so many do not make their own food, so this is definitely a stop for you. YUM!

Oh! Fiddles heads! we both chimed in unison! We do have things in common! Each of us reached for a bag. Then…

Ramps! Oh, my gosh! I was doing the ramp dance! I know they are from the East coast, and everyone has been writing about finding them at their local markets, or wild in the forest from the East. I have been very curious and put them on my list of “to taste one day”. Who would have thought that Mona’s would have them? They are at the end of the season, so starting to brown a bit, but who cares? They looked in fine shape to me! I bought two bundles and the fiddleheads. They looked really fresh and lovely. YUM. (Mona’s is where I get all kinds of berries. They even have some frozen truffles!)

I wasn’t the only one excited about the ramps! They are a wild leek-onion vegetable. Brûlée was eyeing The Jam Lady: Donna Borody, and her husband’s, booth. Honestly, I have never stopped by this booth as I make my own jam, and we eat very little, anyway. But, it was clear that I have been missing something as Brûlée’s eyes were sparkling with delight as she was telling me of her favourites. There is nothing more gorgeous in the fall than a bottle of clear crab apple jelly (above). I have made this many years, and every time get the same thrill of satisfaction from doing this myself. It sparkles like stained glass in the window.

I don’t make hot pepper jelly, though, and do love it. The Jam Lady as several varieties of this. I bought the Scarlet O’Hara (bottom, left photo, far right on the top row). And a couple of others: Gotta Have Grapefruit (because it was stunning and I love all things grapefruit), and Pee Wee (pear and kiwi) as highly recommended by Brûlée.

I don’t know how Donna keep track of them all. Brûlée’s favourite is Oh! Chocolate: big chunks of dark chocolate with berries. I did not buy it because I knew I would find myself at home eating it out of the jar with a spoon!

The grand opening was happening at 10:45, and there was going to be a Chinese Dragon parade and many festivities that are new this year. They were just getting ready as we passed by.

A mom and dad with the most darling little gal passed by us. She was in a little pink sun dress with pink sandals and the most darling pink crocheted hat with a big daisy on it. I just wanted to take her home with me. Not five meters later, we came upon the Little Blossoms booth. There is her hat! Oh, my! There were such gorgeous little feminine touches here. Both Brûlée and I had noticed when we were in London, earlier this year (each on our own trips) that these huge flowers, and similar kinds of headwear made from feathers, were very popular there. I wanted to wear one. Really! But, I knew it wasn’t appropriate. I still wanted one.

Ragan is having gerber daisies at her wedding next summer. These might be adorable clipped in the back of an up-due, or on a purse.

They were promoting a Swap Boutique on May 29th at the Winspear Centre and passing out cards for $2.00 off of the entrance fee. It did look like a great event.

I was pleased that Ocean Odysey had some fresh sea bass. We were having V. over for dinner, and I wanted to grill some fish. Not cheap, but fresh and will be perfect for dinner on our first hot sunny Saturday.

It was really nice to see Smokey Valley have a table. I have only see Fairwinds Farms Goat cheese in this area. I was thrilled to find another artisan cheese maker. YUM! And then there was a lively coloured table sporting nutritious drinks : almond milk, mango lassie (soooo good), and an entire line of great drinks. The Mango Lassie I had was really delicious and I truly felt nourished when I sipped it. The shelf life on these drinks are just a couple of days, so keep that in mind. And I will definitely be back here (until I learn to make my own)!

Mary Ellen and Andreas from Greens Eggs & Ham were already sold out of their lovely greens. I picked up my pre-ordered duck legs and duck fat. I missed the breasts. I hope to get some of those next week. Their duck is delicious and so are their wonderful salad greens!

Free tarts! Look at how beautiful they are. Brûlée and I were in there at lightening speed! There is a new little wine bar opening up beside Credo and today they were having a soft opening. Nice idea. They gave out cards for a free glass of wine or 20% off of a bottle in June. The tarts were not good. They were gorgeous, but the crust was really tough and the filling was indiscernible. We agreed that they were “OK”, and neither of us finished ours. Hopefully, they will have their recipe fine tuned by their opening.

And we met up with Sharon and Mack and Marie and Jeff in time for the grand opening. It was late and hot and unpretentious, so perfect. Another year of shopping downtown and outdoors in Edmonton! Keep track of the suppliers who will be at the market and when on the website. Some will only be there four times throughout the summer, others will be there every week.

And, yes. That is Mack taking the best photo of the ceremony. You can find many more gorgeous photos of the market by Mack here.

Brûlée and I left the market for a lovely lunch at The Dish. She had a salad and I had the tomato and basil soup. We had a really wonderful visit. There are no photos, because, unbeknownst to me, I was coming down with a horrendous flu. By the time I arrived home, I was deathly ill. I hope I didn’t pass it on to anyone. It is late Sunday afternoon and I am just getting this posted, with head pounding and eyes half open. My daughter and my husband are buying my groceries for my classes tomorrow, and I am so thankful for them at times like this.

Next weekend, I will be back. Brûlée and I were looking for Chris and Maki, as they both said they would be at the market, but we had no luck. Maybe next time. Happy sunny week, everyone!

Loved meeting Bebe, but we woul dhave had a lot more fun at the market if we were OUT of the shopping bags! Mind you, I did need time to recover after having my head pushed between the chicken feet. You almost strangled me!

The last full day of our London trip, we rose early to take in the Shakespeare Globe Theatre on our way to Borough Market. When I travel, it is all about the art, the history, and the food. I learn so much about the culture by visiting a local outdoor market and never miss a famous one. It was a drizzling and dreary day outside, but we were happy to be in this city and happy it was only drizzling!

We approached the market from the side street where Neal’s Yard Dairy is situated. That was an amazing coincidence. I had just found the other location in the Coventry area the night before, and this was definitely on my list. I have actually prepared a separate post about this which I will link to when I have published it. If you love local cheeses, this shop is a must-stop!

Then into the flowers and a bustle of movement and colour and aromas swirling around me at once. I was immediately intoxicated and Vanja and I made arrangements to meet back “by the clock” at the corner of this entrance in an hour.

“Strawberries! Two quid a pound! Two quid a pound: fresh strawberries!” The lilt in his booming voice was charming, except that he continued on and on and on and on. I don’t know how he did it. By the end of the day it was, “Strawberries! One quid a pound! Only one quid a pound: fresh strawberries!”

And the hot mulled wine charmed me into a trance. It would be exactly the aroma what one would want to whiff on a drizzling day in an open market in London. I did not have a glass because I could not have everything I wanted. But, I wanted a little bit so very much. It was absolutely tantalizing. One of those perfect, yet unexpected, moments.

Oh, my gosh! One can buy this in cans here! Do they know how fortunate they are? Duck fat I can buy at home… but it is hard to find. The Italian Centre Shop South carries it, as does Greens, Eggs & Ham. But, goose fat? Please tell me where to find this in Edmonton.

Pork shoulder and bacon with dry goat cheese, wine, and wheat sausage: manifique! Woops! Wrong country. And I looked everywhere for the Foie Gras Tasting. One had to buy it to taste it. But who cares? It is for sale at this market. Isn’t that wonderful?

The Duck, Rabbit, and Goose Rillette and Terrines looked really interesting, having never seen the likes of such delicacies all in one place before! A French artisan sausage from the Southern Alps area also looked so yummy. I am not sure why. It just did. Double click on these photos to enlarge them and you can read all of the ingredients on them. The saltpetre interested me.

These walnut sausages were everywhere. They are also from the South of France in the Alps area. I have seen something similar on the counter of the deli area at The Italian Centre Shop South.

Certainly, there was a huge international flair at this market. An advantage of living in London is that you can come here and get foods from all over Europe. What is more French than a massive bouquet of Lavender in the Spring with crunchy baguettes in the background? I actually thought of diving into these head first  and just breathing them in.

And cassoulet in a can? Amazing. Now here comes some British food. Hot pies! I have still not eaten one and this is our last day here. The assortment was astounding. Truly. People obviously eat these and love them. I need to try one. I have decided I am going to buy a Steak and Ale pie to try sometime today. I will keep looking. They just appear to be so dense and so heavy. And, still so varied and full of flavour. One thing that was clearly apparent was the abundance of wild meat and game everywhere through the city. In restaurant menus, in meat market windows, in the pies, and throughout the market. This is very different than at home.

I would have picked one of these pies. How could I go wrong with the gold medal winner? He was already out of Steak and Ale. I was stuck on Steak and Ale. Aren’t they gorgeous?

And then there was an entire window filled with seasoned and tied duck roasts of varying flavour profiles. I have never seen anything like it and was having aparty all by myself marveling at the choice and variety available at this market. This market is definitely brimming with meat. Brits are clearly meat eaters. Very different than the market in San Francisco at The Ferry Building that was brimming with greens and herbs and cheeses and breads and fruits.

The animals and birds were labeled not only for their location, but for the type of animal of bird, specifically, and the farmer. Spelling was fun!

I saw an episode of Laura Calder’s where she did a dressing wrapped in a pounded breast like the ones above to the left. Very pretty.

Bacon. This county celebrates bacon: every kind of bacon from every kind of pig.

And the sausage combinations were incredible and leave our artisan sausage industry looking rather limp. But, we are a young country with a much less dense population. I should not be so harsh.

I have never seen stomachs sold like this before. I found them surprisingly inviting. They did not smell, and were so clean. This should not have surprised me, but it did. This is the first time I have seen a whole animal stomach.

The cuts of beef were huge. I thought we had the corner of the market on huge pieces of beef.

Isn’t this wonderful to be able to have what you buy cut how you want it cut on the spot? This man was exceptional with his sharp knives.

Dry cured rare breed pork lardons: what can I say? I wanted to buy it all. And, fresh goose fat, or at least, not canned.

Soups of all kinds. I am a soup fanatic as I can digest soup and unfortunately can only taste meat these days! (grrr!)

An hour had almost passed and I was still in the same little area I started in. I guess I am a cheap date! Almost time to meet Vanja for lunch and I haven’t even begun to get a feel for this market yet.

All I did was turn the corner to find these delectable places.

I couldn’t get the cider, so I brought back the mulling spices. Three bags. I have looked everywhere. Where are they? The man above had a charm about him that had me spellbound until I remembered I was on a time line.

I wanted to try one of these!

And I have never laid my eyes on the orange part of a scallop before. Or, if I have, I have never noticed it. I definitely need to find out what it is. ( And thanks to Simone, I now know it is coral, the roe part of the scallop. I am so blessed to be able to learn from my fellow food lovers!) The fish at this market was so fresh smelling and shiny and bright and gorgeous. I had never seen many of these kinds of fish. I love fish tastings so that I can compare a new fish with a fish I already know.

I found a fish with fish lips!!!

Brindisa Spanish Foods caught my eye, too! Vanja bought this sausage to bring home and he ate the whole thing by himself. Not at once! But, he loved it.

Everything in the shop was interesting to me. I have not yet been to Spain. As I have just done some tastings of the Jamon Iberico at home, I was very curious. Look at all of the different kinds of special cured hams! And, I have only seen the boneless. I had never seen the leg carved like this before. It is so much more primal and appealing. Grrrrrr! I was into it. The fellow in the red hat was surprised that I had tasted the 3 year acorn Iberico in Canada. He thought it was not exported to us. As he saw my interest, I got a sample of almost each… and he was very interesting. It was a slow moment… then a crowd came, and I remembered I had to move on. I wish I had taken notes, but what I do know is each was fantastic!

Have I become a sadist? Why was I so elated to see this lovely little leg in a brace?

And the vegetables were abundant! Many familiar and some not.

The variety of fresh mushrooms was phenomenal!

I would eat watercress sandwiches for tea, too, if I could buy watercress that looked like this!

I bought the green peppercorns on the far right for a decoration for mom’s 80th birthday tea, and then forgot to use them (sigh). They have turned black, but are very tasty.

I bought my steak and ale pie here and brought it all the way home with me. I gave half to mom and dad and we ate the other half. It traveled very well, and was extraordinarily savoury and moist and flavourful and delicious. Very dense, too, with huge chunks of steak which was actually part of the eating appeal.

Jellied terrines were very common. Not so at home in Edmonton. I do enjoy them, though. They used to be much more common when I was younger, and when more people actually cooked at home. Those were the days!

I wonder where I can buy marrow bones in Edmonton. This has to be a possibility. Does anyone know? I was excited to see them in the market. They were not out for display as they were in the refrigeration unit.

I really appreciated having the butcher there to cut the meat to order. This would be a wonderful opportunity at home, but we do not have this available to us in our markets. We have very few local butchers, at all. Hopefully, there will be a come back of these as the neighbourhood butcher is sorely missed by me!

Look at these choices! The beef must be finished with barley here, too, as it is in Canada. The fat is glistening and white. In the USA, it is finished with corn, and the fat has a yellow hue. I have never had the opportunity to compare the flavour of each fat, though.

Now, that is Osso Bucco! Fantastic!

And here I am back where I started. Neal’s Yard Dairy is below in the blue on the right side of the street. Vanja is standing under the clock kitty-corner to it and is hungry and happy to eat and is completely over all of this. “How much longer do you need?

“A few weeks? How do I answer a question like that? I just felt bad for him wasting his precious time in London with me at the market… so had a fast soup from the little place I had seen with the juices, earlier. I don’t even recall what he got. He did get a juice from the same place I got my soup. It must not have interested me as I didn’t record it on my camera!

We made our way through the crowd to the outside tables I didn’t know existed, but my scout had scouted out the entire place by now.

And, I was not a great date, as I left him eating to continue my rambles at a much faster pace now. How could I sit? Look at all that before me. I was propped ready for take off and had to get up and look. Another hour… and a half? Ok, and 15 minutes.

More jamon and cheese. Gorgeous.

And then a mushroom paté that was so delicious I had to buy some on the spot. What would I do with it? I had no idea. I had to have it. It freezes beautifully, I was told. Perfect. I will serve it for Mom’s 80th Birthday tea. YUM. It was not herby at all. Just a burst of gorgeous mild mushroom with a creamy, yet fresh texture. I don’t know how they did it, but do know I could not repeat it at home.

Across from the mushroom paté, and beside the jamon and cheese booth, was the Sicilian Honey Man. He was a character, too. Very informative. He had six different flavours of honey and explained how each was created. Well, he tried, but was interrupted so many times. Finally, he just swiped the bowl of cheese samples from the booth beside him and gave me a taste of his orange honey with their cheese. Deadly! Truly. I was in, I bought the 4 sampler jars to be served with the cheeses I was bought at Neal’s Yard Dairy for mom’s tea. I don’t know how I will do it. I just know I must. (The cheese guys next door were ranting at him as I left and he returned their samples. He saw me watching and just grinned and winked.)

At this moment, I wanted my sketch pad and a paper. I was truly moved by the rugged edges and colour and cut and angles of this cheese. So gorgeous.

And more meats I have never heard of, and some I have that looked different than I had ever seen them.

The Swiss cheeses were on sale for an Easter fondue. Lucky Londoners!

This is the cheese used for racellette. I was dying for a sample as Lauren (my duaghter) had been in Switzerland and had a racelette dinner and raved about it. A gal eying the cheese beside me read my mind and told me where I could find a booth to sample this cheese. I was not going to miss it!  There is something smooth and unusually mellow looking and beautiful about this cheese.

I had to touch the letters embossed in the rind of the cheese above. Bulging with goodness!

After my bread baking course in Bath, I was eying the various breads here. Some I had never seen before.

Almost nothing appeals to me more than tomatoes at a market. The glistening colours are vibrant and the possibilities are endless. There is nothing better than a really great tomato. They are hard to come by, even at markets. That is sad. However, these were incredible. Yes, I sampled.

My attention was wandering to the Calabrian meat next door, yet I did stop to examine the oak roasted cherry tomatoes. People were heading straight here to buy them, and leaving. A completely new flavour profile for me. Difficult to describe. Oaky, smokey, yet lush and fresh at the same time. One package please! These will be perfect on a little open faced something for mom’s 80th.

Look at this! What is it? I had to have a taste.

This is a paté type of spicy sausage from Calabria called Ndyja (read the sign in the message by double clicking to enlarge the photo). The sample was so tiny, yet the flavour burst and texture so appealing. It was made from the belly and the cheek of the pig with 25% hot chili and then smoked. I had to have some of this, too. How much? Hmmm… how much? Oh, I’ll take a whole one. (It would travel better than a portion.) I am glowing by now. Glowing. I cannot feel the weight of my bags.

Perpendicular to the Calabria table is an array of French cheeses. My knees go wobbly. Just to see them, I felt blessed. To eat them, I would be in heaven.

See the man sampling the Stichelton, above? That is how it was done. Not so sanitary. I didn’t care. I sampled it, too. Outrageous. Talk about umami.

I had not seen cheeses like this before this trip and found the experience to be so moving. I was in awe of the gorgeous discs and drums and of the artisan cheese makers who know how to create such texture and flavour.

Where else would one find a terrine of wild goose, foie gras, and wild garlic?

I stopped myself from tasting a leaf. I had never seen this kind of garlic and it took a great deal of restraint to not sample.

AH! Here is the Racellette! The name of the booth is Kappacasein (and The Brulee Blog was there a week before me). There was a crowd around this station so I peeked in to see the curiosity. Oh, my! The set up was simple, yet smart. When an order comes in, the cheese is maneuvered into position under the heat lamp and melted until bubbling and golden.

Montgomery Cheddar was an offering as well as the traditional Swiss cheeses; the traditional plate is filled with dill pickles, boiled potatoes, and pickled baby onions. The molten cheese is slathered onto the plate blanketing the vegetables in one smooth motion. You can here an audible “Ahhhh!” from those of us “just watching”.

The Lenonese fare looked tasty. I was thrilled to see the little pastries to the right above. I have the mold for these, but no recipe. I found it and knew I would want it someday! If anyone has a recipe, please e-mail it to me! (And Heavenly Housewife did in the comments, below!  Lucky me to have such an amazing friend! Joumana tells me they are called: maamoul. I as counting on her to help me with this.)

It was Easter Saturday.

The nougat above right looked too good to be real.

This is my first puzzle cake!

The above were a special specific cake that I have definitely heard of. I asked, and cannot recall what the answer was! (Lamington’s I have since learned! Thank you, Sarah!)

More mushrooms.

I was a bit confused with the mural on the wall. I knew that whatever this was, was important due to the gold foil on each hoof.

I have never seen it with a bone in it. I loved reading the information and seeing the really special artisan foods. Look at that leg!

Why, oh, why don’t the Londoners get back to the Fish and Chip stands? We tourists all crave fresh seafood. Vanja and I had the best battered cod we had eaten in our lives at a quaint little restaurant aptly called Wharf during our Thames River walk. This fish looked as good. I had it other times, but nothing came close. My nose was pressed against the glass for a little bit here!

I just had the last side of the middle market to scoot down to meet Vanja. I still had plenty of time.

I have no idea how they dried this puffer fish; it captured my attention, too!

I have never seen wild brill or langusteen.

I love this photo. I love the veins running through the ear, and the position of the head against the wall with the ears flapping back like the flying nun. I am sure one of the heads had eyelashes on it.

Artisan butters. I love artisan butters. I will continue to lobby for artisan butter makers in the Edmonton area. Cheese makers, farmers with milking cows, people looking for a great hobby: get into artisan butters. There is no one around here doing this, in Alberta that I know of. Is there?

The silliest things excite me. I have seen these little jars in many of the more well known food blogs and have written and asked about them and was told they were from Europe and used to contain yogurt. I did see them in Harrod’s Food floor and almost bought a dozen yogurts just for the jars… but, again, cannot waste food. This young man told me he could have a dozen jars for me if I came back in an hour. That was very kind, but I didn’t have an hour. However, I recently found them on Megan Gordon’s blog, “A Sweet Spoonful“, and she wrote back telling me : The jars are from Weck, a German company. They have a website and you can order directly from them. Can also order from Heath Ceramics–they carry Weck, too.” So, I will be doing this, soon. Anyone interested in a group order?

I can never pass by a salt I haven’t found without buying some. This is a wet grey salt and I have been using it in my bread baking since coming home, and it is fantastic.

The rolls looked so interesting. Great ideas for a summer barbeque!

Gorgeous breads back at the beginning of the Market (by Neal’s Yard Dairy, again), and just across from the most charming flower market.

Time to go. Vanja is under the clock grinning at me with that little twinkle in his eye he gets when he is enjoying me enjoy myself.

My bags laden with the most amazing products feel light in my arms as I am still giddy and grinning from the wonderful whirlwind trip to the market on a Saturday. There is no better place to be. And, we are off to our hotel for a change of clothes and to go our for a formal British Tea. The last thing on my list that I have to do before going home. And a great farewell on our last night in London town.

This market surpassed my expectations and my imagination. A must for any foodie visiting London.

And Beavie was waiting, not so patiently in the hotel room when we returned. Not at all happy that we were going out again.

Why did you even bring me with you? You never take me anywhere! I am sure an eager little Beavie like me could have the time of his life in this fair city!

Little did Beavie know that Beaver meat was about the only meat I didn’t see at the market today. Who knows what would have become of him.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJBkwZ_aEqE