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An Introduction to North Beach: Part 1

September 29, 2009 by Valerie Lugonja 1 Comment

San Francisco Walking Tour with Grace Ann Walden

Well, here we are, in the heart of San Francisco’s Little Italy in the North Beach area. We are to meet Grace Ann Walden right in front of the green doors in one hour. Just enough time for our morning coffee. Perfect. The Saturday morning aromas of freshly pressed espresso and baked bread waft through the air as we walk down Columbus Avenue looking for a great little spot to start our day. As Vanja is the espresso connoisseur, he picks the spot. There were many, so it was not an easy task. Perfect.
I started my sampling immediately. So much to choose from. Two little bocci, a biscotti, and an apricot cookie. The bocci look better than they taste. Maybe they are to be dunked? It is always fun! The latte was great. Now we are refreshed and ready to start our tour! After meeting Grace Ann and her other “victims”, our first stop was XOX Truffles. Chef Jean-Marc Gorce is from France and I found him to be a passionate wealth of iinformation. If you know me, or have been investigating my blog, then you know I make my own truffles. I am self taught and have continued to hone my skill over the years. I am very pleased with what I have accomplished, yet was thrilled to learn what I did in the brief 20 minutes with Jean-Marc about the difference in the effect when the truffle covering is very thin. That changes everything, an I did really notice the difference in the mouthfeel and in the enjoyment of the generous bag of truffles he sent us on our way with.

 

Generous is relative, I suppose, considering we each paid $65.00 American dollars for this three and a half hour tour. Grace Ann did pay him something for the goodies he supplied, but I was very pleased with the selection and the opportunity to sample such a variety. Now, on to the bakery to see how sour dough bread is made. Interestingly, I had no idea that sour dough was such a big thing in San Francisco. It is everywhere, and clearly “famous” there. I have always loved sourdough everything, but Vanja was definitely not a fan, so that took a little enthusiasm out of my future plans to make batches of it at home.
The first place we passed by where Greace Ann usually goes was completely empty and closed for August. Apparently, August is the worst weather month in San Francisco, and many pack up and leave for their holiday that month. We had never been, so the cold and fog were completely unexpected, but still enjoyed by us as the city was so beautiful.
Looked like Mama’s was a populare breakfast destination as the line up went around the corner. Grace Ann just grunted something inaudible when I asked her about it.
We were welcomed with a hot coffee and a biscotti. YUM. After a chat, and a little warm up time, we headed back into the kitchen. It was a lovely little tour of the kitchen. We certainly did not get to see how the sour dough bread was made, or get to speak with the baker there, but we did get to sneak home a little sour dough starter! I was absolutely thrilled about that. I will be bloggin about my sour dough baking experiences later. I have been home now for a month and only fed it once. I had better check it soon!
I fell in love with the old table, and the old ovens. The bakery was not spotless, but any means. Not even close to the gleam of Bouchon Bakery, but it was wrinkled with history, and that was intensely beautiful in a completely different way. I should add that I would definitely feel comfortable eating the bread baked here! This is where they store their started. And this is how mine came home with me!
I think we are now headed to the North Beach Museum. I am a happy camper now. San Francisco sourdough starter in tow. This is a foodie find! I should add, that we have taken several foodie tours, and this one was not the same calibre. Honestly. I did have a great time because I was learning and seeing points of interest in this little area. However, all other tours are far more historical, and cover so many other points of interest as you walk from place to place, Vanja has always been entertained and felt he learned a lot. Not on this tour. Grace Ann clearly had her own agenda and it was not filled with the stories of the founders of the area, or of little side trips through back alleys off the tourist path with little secret gems we have been treated to on our other foodie tours. I cannot compare her to others offered in San Francisco, as we didn’t go on any others. I can say that I had a great time.
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Filed Under: California Tagged With: San Francisco, Walking Tours

About Valerie Lugonja

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Educator, Writer, Gardener and Traveler who believes in buying and eating locally, and most importantly cooking at home! As a brand new Gramsy, so be prepared to hear a lot about this new role in her life!
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