The clock tower is the symbol of Kotor as is every clock tower in an ancient town. This one has been kept by the same family for 279 years and has only stopped twice. Once, on purpose during the 1979 earthquake, and once when the keeper was ill. His one son is not interested in carrying on the family tradition, so the tradition stated in Venetian times here, will cease at the end of this generation. However, the tradition of fresh open air markets has gone on for hundreds of years, and still, today, but just outside of the city walls, you will find almost anything you can imagine at the Kotor old city open air market. This city is magic. So clean. So magical.
Roasted corn is a special traditional treat all over the Balkans. I had heard of it, but this is the first time I had seen it.
Massive peppers, figs, cherries, cranberries, star fruit, bananas”¦.
The porcini were selling from 80 Euro a kilo to 100 Euro a kilo, depending upon the vendor. That shocked me. I bought some a year ago March in Italy for 20 Euro a kilo and in Edmonton they range from 50 to 100 Canadian dollars a kilo, depending upon the season and where you buy them. The prices for everything in this market were outrageous, but not higher than the grocery store, or any other nearby market. They have to complete, they told me, and they are just high right not. Everyone is aware of, and affected by “œthe recession”.
I killed myself laughing when I saw the plastic flowers for sale amidst all of the natural beauty here. Why, I wonder?
How lucky am I? I found wild strawberries. or a moment, I thought they were dried strawberries. I can understand some of the language, but not so much. The entire litre was only 5 Euro. Yes, they are expensive, but worth it, I think! I did find out they were fresh when I tasted before I bought: mushy! SO SAD!
Behind the outdoor market, right against the old town wall are rows of grocery and meat and cheese markets. I found a friendly English speaking man and we had a very interesting conversation about prices. See the long aisle and then the market outside of the fence?
I was excited when I saw the meat chart. These are clearly for foreigners, like me!
Yes, those are actually pigs feet to the right, above. Nothing is wasted. And, yes, pigs ears to the right below. The ears get nice and crispy when roasted, and everyone fights over them when the pig comes off of the spit. The ones here are probably good for flavouring pasulj (bean soup), or sarma, (sour cabbage rolls), or a stew. This I was not tempted to buy, taste, or learn how to cook with. I get it. I just don’t want to eat it.
And, of course, wine and liquor. You will also find domestic, and if you ask, you will probably be able to buy some REAL domestic sljiva or wine from a person’s private stock. Most people know someone who has extra to sell. But, make sure you taste it first!
I bought raspberries, bananas, and black berries for our little day trip to Perast and then to Herceg Novi. YUM. I LOVE markets. I am so interested to investigate the quality of the produce, the prices, and the variety at each. To me, they are a living museum of the present.