Free range, farm raised, fire roasted Soul Food Farm chicken. The menu had read “pan roasted”, but this method must be superior, as it was as good as it gets. To have this kind of facility to cook with must be thrilling for Alice Waters and her chefs! It was thrilling for me. Eating here was the fulfillment of a dream, but the desire to work here was overwhelming after my tour of the kitchen. It is a beautiful, warm earthy environment reminiscent of “the olden days” laden with the freshest and most wholesome of ingredients. An artist’s paradise. I really had to exert a considerable amount of disipline to leave the kitchen. I felt very inspired in it, and the compelling urge within me to “beg” them to let me assist was quite honestly, surprising. (chez panisse)
As Lauren moved from Boston to San Francisco in July, we had to take advantage of another opportunity to visit her this year. It has been a very fortunate year of travel and amazing learning experiences for us. Chez Panisse was definitely on the “must do” list. As a member of Slow Food, and as a “foodie”, one wouldn’t miss an opportunity to check in.
I called to make a reservation as I could never get one on Open Table. It is very easy to get one by phoning in. It happened to be on a Monday because the football game was on the Saturday, and it is closed on the Sunday, so I took the Monday. I didn’t know at the time that the Monday evenings offer a three course meal at a reduced rate of $60.00. When I found out, and read the preset menu, I was delighted. “Poulet Basquaise”, or pan roasted chicken (which changed) with piment d’Espelette, sweet peppers, and garlic fried potatoes. Vanja would be satisfied. This would be familiar terrain for him. Fantastic!
We took the Bart from downtown San Francisco to Berkley. It cost $4.50, and took less than thirty minutes and was the best way to go, for us. One really gets the feel of a neighbourhood this way, too. We had a good ten minute walk ahead of us, but it was just straight up the street, so easy to find. I expected a hip University town similar to Palo Alto. Nope. The Berkley I saw (and I believe it was the main area) was run down, and poorly kept. I was disappointed. Across the street from Chez Panisse is a cute little cafe. We sat to wait for Lauren to meet us, and when I went to use the washroom, it became brutally apparent that this was a cafe for a hotel of very close to homeless people.
Chez Panisse was not clearly visible from across the street, a similar strategy as The French Laundry. Hummm. Maybe this is a high end restaurant trend?
Lauren arrived seconds after we did, and I was really curious about what lay within….
We had thirty minutes until our reservation, so waited upstairs at the bar. This is where Lauren ordered a diet coke. Oh-oh! I was curious as to what would happen. I knew they wouldn’t have any, but she was sure they would. The bar tender was adorable: literally, and figuratively! He offered other healthy choices. Lauren opted out, so I ordered one. Then he came around to Lauren and said,” I don’t mean to be pushy, or annoying in anyway, but diet sodas are so unhealthy. They are just not good for you. There are so many other wonderful healthy choices.” She was embarrassed, or at least looked a little embarrassed. She is the vision of health, and is about the healthiest person I know, so it was kind of cute. When she tasted the blackberry soda, she was hooked. But, so was I. We shared. Vanja had a local beer. He loves to do that when we travel. Interesting. I wonder how much better beer is for you than diet coke? I cannot believe I asked that question! I adore Alice Waters. Truly. Truly
We were ushered downstairs in no time. I did not feel comfortable taking photos of the upstairs restaurant, but it was really lovely. I expected, from what I had read, a casual environment. It was warm, and open, and bright, and had a beautiful balcony, but it definitely had a sense of formality. The meal choices here were also tantalizing. When I toured the downstairs kitchen, I definitely got the sense that there was another kitchen upstairs when I thought about it later. There was no evidence of any massive meal preparation as would have been evident if the kitchen accommodated both floors. It was dark on the lower level (really, the main floor), so no photos of the room, either.
The first course promised “Petite friture with purslane, cucumber and lemon salad”. The “petite fry” was sardines, as they had acquired fresh ones earlier in the day. I was delighted. YUM. The salad was also exciting for me. It was my first experience with purslane which I later found in the Farmer’s Markets and in many restaurants in the area. The cucumber salad had mint in it and another taste that was very compelling, and I could not identify it. I asked our effervescent waiter, Gionni, and he immediately brought a leaf to me that we broke together, and sniffed and he was so good, I actually felt that I shared a moment of new learning with him. I should add here that our waiter was exceptional. We were welcomed as if it was a home we were eating in. He chatted, and found out why we were there and then worked all evening to satisfy my “foodie” needs. Bringing me this leaf, and celebrating it with me was done with such earnest intent that I was completely charmed by him. I cannot find my notes, nor can I remember the name of this leaf. I am working at it!
The main course arrived and our waiter’s assistant took our photo. The “Poulet Basquaise with piment d’Espelette, sweet peppers, and garlic fried potatoes” was accompanied with an arugula salad and was the best chicken I have ever eaten in my life. Vanja was impressed, and really enjoyed his meal. That made me so happy. Sometimes I get more satisfaction from the tastes, and the photographs I take and the kitchens I visit, or the cooking experience than the eating experience. Actually, most times. See the little papers on the table. They were the specific menus for the evening meal. That is where my notes will be. I will find them again, soon.
I did ask for a tour of the kitchen, and we were invited through before out dessert. Below are the chickens to be cooked for the evening in a massive vat, piled on top of one another marinating in heavenly scented garlic, herbs, and oil.
The prep table was immaculate and the fig clafoutis we were about to be served was just out of the oven. Each item is made to order and clearly with very careful attention to detail. I commented on the beautiful clafoutis the pastry chef and he bantered back that he “should be good at it after 28 years.” This kitchen was a warm, efficient, and “well oiled machine”.
I was really surprised when Gionni kept waving us back, back, back into the depths of the kitchen. We were really getting shown, and with pride, the entire space. Past the main area, down some stairs, and he opened a large door to a walk-in fridge. I was delighted with what we saw behind that door.
Just look at that. Talk about the best of the best. I want a room like this.
As we came out of the walk-in fridge, we passed by a woman we must have passed on the way in. She was carefully preparing the meat. Maybe for upstairs? She was on the lower level on her own, and had this lovely space to work in. I am not sure what I said to her, but it was a comment about her space and how I would love to be working there with her. We shared a laugh together. She didn’t think I was serious and I was so serious.
The gleaming copper covered light fixtures, the warmth of the rustic bricks, the worn wood surfaces with the terra cotta floor were perfect. The long narrow space was perfect. The tour of the kitchen was as profound for me this evening as the meal I ate.
The tea was a handful of fresh spearmint leaves in hot water. Beautiful and so satisfying. Gionni noted that all of the leaves must be submerged immediately, or the ones left in the oxygen will turn black. They were such a beautiful colour of green. We sipped and savoured. The clafoutis was outstanding: “fig and raspberry clafoutis with wild fennel”. And when the plates disappeared, the candied orange zest appeared with some really delicious spiced almonds. The candied zest with the mint tea was so unexpected and something I would never usually order or think I might enjoy. I was mezmerized. The burst of bright freshness the zest introduced at the end of the evening was such an adventure. Yum. Yum. Yum.
So, if you are coming to dinner in the near future, and you know me well, you will know what to expect with your coffee after the dessert. Again, no secrets at Chez Panisse. Ingredients not only shared, but celebrated. Tours not only given, but with pride and commitment. This was more than a meal. It was a sensory expedition. That magical place within was ignited and I left so inspired and re-fired.
Now, time to create! Thank you, Alice Waters. Thank you, Gionni!
I like all the things you’re undertaking